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'Splitting hairs' here (how sharp for that?)...you're both correct. Sharpness within the remit of cutting wood for cabinet/joinery work etc is what should be under consideration.

:?

Elm

What you're referring to is 'Japaning' which was the European derivation of the traditional lacquer work from the Far East. Some time ago there was a decent article in F&C on this more correct form of lacquer which might be worth a perusal. If memory serves, it's a very specialised, time...

Long time lurker and not too difficult to use the 'search' function...worry not, I won't be entering the comp (far too much on my ['shop] plate)...'Woodbloke' clearly made it...I only found it....

Doing a search and trawling back through to the last comp, I recollect this perhaps won it? ...not mine, I hasten to add, but I wish it was.

I have one as well...excellent bit of kit. The main thing to look out for is the size of the tension spring...it's massive on the Startrite and much bigger than the Record equivalent. This means that it will fully tension a 19mm M42 Tuffsaws blade. Note that to obtain full tension, a blade...

Agree. The tools are secondary, the wood is the most important thing...and even more important, what you do with it.

For life in the Georgian navy, there's only one to consider. Forester and the 'Hornblower' books...forget what you ever saw on film or that appalling TV series a few years ago, I've read them at least a dozen times. For the meanest Greenjacket that ever wielded a Baker rifle in the Peninsular...

Probably about right, but not an exact science. My 'shop has a dehumidifier running 365/24/7 which drains into a soak-away under the floor. No idea what the RH is but I don't have problems with condensation ('shop heated, sealed and well insulated) on metalwork. I ought to get hold of one of...

Most of the tables shown have a slot...you don't need one. Simply use a push block(s) with an angled tote to provide pressure against the fence at the same time as it's pushed forwards. The fence can then be at any angle to the front of the table using a couple of threaded bolts to hold it down.

Not currently, but there were a couple on UKW a few years ago.

...or being 'in the zone.' Clear the 'shop, have a really good tidy up, have a brew (or two) sharpen the tools, calm down and concentrate and it usually (not always) comes together. That is, of course, if you've really thought your way through what needs to be done...if you haven't it'll still...

Agree

You have extensive and on-going experience on which to make that statement? Depends...but it is far, far better that A2.

...and an A2 edge will also crumble if the honing angle isn't high enough. There are far better alternatives available, but you won't find one in a Stanley plane.

Good price...A2 steel cutter though :cry:

So what's the best wood for a little stick guide like that then?...how seasoned does it need to be? Do I need to have those side shoots cut off to give extra grip or is it best to leave a few little stubs to wrap fingers around?

I like that. I'm going to go and hack a lump of branch and make on just like it.