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Hi Steve. This is going to take some more looking into. The trouble with 18th century makers is there is not a great deal of standardisation in their design, but now I have had another look, it would appear a good majority of them have a skewed bed while the front of the mortise is square, the...

Hi Steve. This is an interesting post that got me examining my 18th century collection. I was surprised that out of about 120 18th century moulders, I could only find about 4 that had a notable skew. John Rogers of London 1734- 1765, was an early example. As Andy pointed out, they appear to...

Hi Steve. I sometimes use them for the fun of it. They are good for drilling at an angle, and cut reasonably fast, and you don't have to worry about them snapping in half if you put too much bending pressure on them.

Hi My set up is a bit extreme, but I wish I had done it years ago, as it's such a joy to use I encased my vice entirely as I'm not keen on metal surfaces on my bench. My jaw is oak, but has a soft leather facing. It's 2ft long with a timber support strut running through the apron. I have...

Hi

I have done it in the past with a centre bead moulding plane, but there hard to find, and probably not very efficient if you have a lot to do. Mind you, it's not very dusty!

Hard working infill planes. We all love an infill plane, but I often wonder how many of us use them on a daily basis in our professional workplace? A lot end up in collections, and I don’t personally have a problem with that, but I do wonder how many actually earn a living in today’s working...

Accoya is just another timber, a softwood pine at that. These sashes were fitted into bricked up openings and made to match the originals. They were also single glazed.

Hi, it's Accoya

I cant help but love the abstract patterns that sometimes form when making unplugged joinery. Symmetry, and chaos often combine together to make magic

Hi Steve. No, it was cut from the solid. If I had to make one I would possibly just use a plough plane and an appropriate sized round.

Sorry Steve, I meant to include these images of the board found in the workshop

Just some thoughts on sash templates and scribing that might help you Steve. I have studied this subject for many years, and carried out all sorts of experiments to work out how, or even if, these templates were used. It's my experience that possibly about 90 percent of the templates I have...

Don't worry about it Andy. We know the physical evidence is out there. Maybe the penny will drop some day!

Hi Steve. I knew I had a picture somewhere. It's not quite the same set up as yours as I was using a cove and astragal mould as apposed to an ovolo, and this was mitred instead of scribed, but the franking procedure is just the same

Hi Steve. I'm sorry things aren't going so well. I'm afraid what is causing your problem is that you don't appear to have left any protruding waste on your stile. This would make the franking stable . I'm also concerned that you have mitred the stile. This should be left cut square and...

Hi Steve. That all looks fine to me. I tend not to run my top and bottom vertical bar through. I have seen so many bottom rails rotted out where the water has wicked up the end grain of the bottom mortise if it has been taken right through. Having said that, it is often down to poor maintenance...

Hi Steve. I always Frank my sashes. It gives a longer baring surface for the wedge to sit against, and contrary to what others may say, every old window I have examined, including many examples in the Brooking collection, are done this way. In my workshop, I remove the portion of the franking on...