Recent content by jimbowley

I don't know what building rules say, but you could notch the ends of 6" or 7" beams to fit the existing mountings and external envelope. Internally you could taper the beams to lose less headroom at the low end, eg 7" tapering to 5". Probably a bit late now but could you have lowered the floor?

I was also going to suggest build your own. I started on that route myself because it's interesting to spec your own machine, but then I realised that a year long project wasn't what I needed, I just needed a tool to use. I bought a 1800x900 Stepmores direct from China £4k all in. 3kW...

I'm not sure what the net means there, but there's no way it takes more energy to heat space1 versus space1 plus space2. I have to assume you are seeing increased output from say radiator 1 and forgetting that previously there was also a radiator 2 which is now off. Or you've changed the...

Let's see.... Yes, adjacent rooms will lose heat into the cold room. Therefore they will either be slightly colder than before {A} or they will draw more energy from their heat source to maintain their temp {B}. In {A} another room will be cooler than before, therefore less heat loss to...

You allowed for comments so here they are :) I'm not a professor but a mechanical engineer who got A's in thermodynamics. 1). Letting the temperature fall lower and then reheating [A] will use less energy than maintaining at an intermediate temp and then re-heating . To model this for...

I've been using a crappy £50 B&Q table saw forever, with a homemade fence that's marginally better then the original. It's noisy as hell, and the blade wobbles at times. But as long as I cut everything twice I can get a good result. It just about does 600mm but it's precarious! and I'm going to...

Well I've got some 50x20 fresh sawn oak on order. I'll try bending it without a strap and let you know how it goes.

3rd option is bendywood oak skirting 60x13, which I've requested the price for.

I asked a similar question here: how-to-get-a-thick-edging-on-plywood-t34789.html and got some great replies. I never tried the solutions suggested (stuck to solid wood) but I'm ready again to try something similar. The table tops will be 19mm Oak veneered MDF. Oval shaped with minimum bend...

I wondered if it was veneered, mainly because you can't see grain at the sides (it is painted) and because it is so perfect. You are probably right, it was just the underside that threw me, why veneer that? But I guess double veneered board is common. I will attack the underside to find out.

This is my parent dining table. 25 years old. 6'x3' sheet 3/4" thick. The staves are 6" wide, continuous. http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/7885 ... 5large.jpg Can you tell what the wood is? FWIW I plan to sand the pattern off and turn it into a dining / poker table.

Thanks for the inputs, and magazine offer. I've done some searching on steam bending which is interesting, but a bit too much for this application. I'm tending towards lots of layers of iron-on edge veneer, but I can't find out the thickness. Obviously big difference between 0.5mm and 2mm...

Hi, My next poker table build will be 88"x48". Up to now I've used solid wood, but the cost of strip beech sheet is too much at £240 so I'll use beech ply (£50 B&Q). But I want to have a reasonable roundover on the edge, eg 6mm. So what techniques can I use? The smallest bend radius is 20"...

thanks everyone. tommo, after posting I spotted that I'd asked before and that there was an answer :) but it's turned out good anyway.

Anyone know of a UK source for bare wood table pedestals, preferably turned, with 3 or 4 legs? I've googled for over 4 hours previously and can't find one supplier.