Recent content by jamesmerrix

Thanks for all of the replies guys, i really appreciate it and have got some useful information. I think i will up the thickness a litre - perhaps another inch or so; and i think i will put some steel in as well. Looking forward to getting it started now. james

Hi Rodders, Yes, Timber frame is what i have planned - maybe a course or two of bricks to keep the timber off the slab? Thanks for the tips about the poly sheeting. I also like the idea for the floor insulation. looks like it is going to be a weekend of compacting stone!

Thank you for your replies, and to answer some questions asked of me: No the hardcore has not been compacted down, yet. I will be hiring a plate compactor at some point. I will be putting about 50mm of sand over the top, followed by a dpm and then around 100mm of concrete. Having moved the (6...

Hi, I am looking for a little advice regarding pouring a slab for a workshop floor. I have cleared the top soil and put down about 100mm of stone as a sub base, and now am deciding how best to make the shuttering. 2 sides of the shuttering could be formed by a sleeper wall, and the concrete base...

yup OSB on the inside. i assumed i would need a clear vented space between the insulation/tyvek and the cladding. if not then great, its one less thing to buy! Thanks for your help james

That all sounds sensible - i had considered doing the roof first, but was a little worried about leaving the sides open. I didn't want it flying off into the distance with a bit of wind!! Wall construction was going to be: Inside --> Outside OSB, rockwool, Breather membrane, Counter battens...

Hi, I am planning to biuld a new workshop in the next few months and wanted to get peoples thoughts as to the best order to work through the project. It is going to be about 4x8 - with a dividing wall about 2.5-3m from one end to create a home office as well. It is going to be a timber frame...

Sounds like pvc is the way to go. i hadn't considered the problem of movement when fitting the Dg units directly - thanks for pointing it out. james

Hi, I am planning a new workshop and will be following the guide that Mike put up a while ago. One thing that i am unsure about is windows; as far as i can see i have a couple of options: Second hand UPVC windows from ebay - these are very cheap, pretty effective, but don't look great and i am...

From what I can see there isn't any adjustment at all. The pulley is sits on a shouldered shaft with a bolt at the end to secure it. Nothing has come up on Google so far. I seem to remember someone on this forum working for scheppach, is that right? James

Hello, I have a problem with the drive belt on my planer. The belt that takes power from the end of the cutter head and transfers it down to the thicknesser gears seems to be out of alignment, and keeps trying to 'climb' off its lower pulley. The only thing that prevents the belt from coming off...

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/cat_2.html I have bought stuff from here several times, good service and a very active forum to find out all about polishing. HTH James

Thanks for all of your replies, I appreciate what everyone says about movement, uneven drying and the resulting splits and shakes, however i am more than happy to see them appear and eveolve over time. Andy - i think a shallow full width M+T will be the answer; i had not though of the movement...

Paul - I Like the idea of rawl-bolts - i am taking off the old suround tomorrow so i will see what sort of walli have to play with. Matthew - Sorry i should have mentioned, i will be using new oak sleepers - so no tar, made that mistake when i edged the lawn...hot tar trodden into beige carpets...

Hello, I have had a search through some old posts, but dont seem to be able to find the answer i am looking for so hopefully you will be able to help. I am planning to make a large (2.5m W x 1.2m H) fire surround from some oak sleepers; as i am looking for a solid, rustic look and having some...