Recent content by _lotusbleu

Not sure if people are so interested in seeing fitted cabinets - but this is my first completed fit since lock down has eased. Bit of a mammoth! Also made the ladder.

Might be worth looking in to Clarks Wood - they recently moved from Bristol to Newport.

Looks really great. I'd like to know what finish you used too!

Thanks for the replies everyone. Ideally I'll be routing out the waste of hinges freehand, so good visibility is definitely a key aspect I'm looking for. It will be for professional use, but not receiving daily abuse or anything really taxing!

I'm looking in to getting a little palm router - mainly going to be used for cutting hinges and roundovers on smaller pieces. Has anyone got any good recommendations? I've been holding off for a long time before getting one so it'd be great to know other peoples' experiences before buying.

Might have to order the spares from the US and have them shipped over. If you do find someone in the UK that will get them for you it may be exactly what they do!

Sure, I get that they need to be notched to accommodate for each other. I thought you meant that the bottom rail was notched in order to come through the leg (ignoring the top rail for the time being). Are you thinking that the bottom rail is morticed through at full width of the rail?

I recently finished this built in wardrobe. All birch ply & tulip. Sorry about the size of the picture! Struggled to figure out how to upload it.

That certainly seems the most sensible way to go about it! I have a feeling that there's some sneakier Japanese joinery going on here. Definitely all about the showiness either way!

Not sure if I see what you mean about notching the bottom tenon? Maybe I'm being slow, but I can't see how notching it would allow the full width to come through the leg. Unless you just mean to allow for the top rail? Still puzzling over this one!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BR8PB2NhKAk ... =kataiisho I saw this picture of a table made by a Japanese furniture maker. He uses this joint a lot in his furniture. At first I assumes it was just a bridle joint, but this picture shows that both rails can't be bridled. There's another example...

I've had someone drop off a table that has had the finish damaged by solvents, leaving two white marks on the top. what's the best way to go about repairing the finish? I got some polyvine wood lacquer - will it just be a case of touching up the damaged spots with it? thanks for any advice!

There's no head on them, it looks just like a steel rod. My first thought was it was a metal framers pin with no 't' section.

Hi all, I picked up some big oak beams from an old cottage renovation and saved them. I was thinking they'd look great as some legs in a slab table or bench. There's a lot of 20mm diameter bolts through them, probably about 5 inches long and I've had no luck removing them, anyone got any ideas?

Hey everyone, Looking to get myself a planer/thicknesser on a budget, mainly for furniture making, so it'll need to be up to taking rough boards. Saw Axminster have their AW 106 PT2 for sale at around £800, which makes it tempting. I wouldn't want to go too much over that kind of price. It seems...