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By delaney001
#1325102
Hi,

Can anyone reccomend a finish to apply to the attached ash live edge table. The table will have a small amount of epoxy (probably clear) into the two cavities at the end. The legs are going to be a black steel trapezoid shape.

I have been reading about BLO and Danish oil and i also saw Mike's 1/3 mix suggested as well. Can anyone provide any suggestions. Hoping for something not too shiny or anything that will 'yellow' the timber.

Thanks

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By woodbloke66
#1325113
Most oils will turn ash and other light colours a 'familiar' shade of yellow after some time. One solution is to use Osmo Raw and the other is to use a matt Acrylic which I used on this Alan Peters blanket chest in Olive Ash finished earlier this year:

IMG_3315.jpg


IMG_3319.jpg


IMG_3320.jpg


https://www.axminster.co.uk/polyvine-wa ... h-ax715653

I bought the acrylic from Axminster and there's a combination of matt and satin on this job - Rob
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By MikeG.
#1325123
Yep, be very careful with oil on ash.......unless you actually like the colour of strong stale urine! :)

PS....you need a new circular saw blade.
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By thetyreman
#1325129
bestwood pure tung oil, mix it with white spirits 50/50 for the first 2-3 coats then apply it unthinned, it looks clearer and less yellow than linseed oil.
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By thetyreman
#1325130
woodbloke66 wrote:Most oils will turn ash and other light colours a 'familiar' shade of yellow after some time. One solution is to use Osmo Raw and the other is to use a matt Acrylic which I used on this Alan Peters blanket chest in Olive Ash finished earlier this year:

IMG_3315.jpg


IMG_3319.jpg


IMG_3320.jpg


https://www.axminster.co.uk/polyvine-wa ... h-ax715653

I bought the acrylic from Axminster and there's a combination of matt and satin on this job - Rob


nice job on that project Rob, looks immaculate to me =D>
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By Sheffield Tony
#1325131
The ash I've used for chairs, finished with Rustins Danish oil, starts out quite pale and eventually goes a biscuit like colour - think rich tea biscuits, nicer thought than stale urine ! Linseed is probably the most yellowing option, I avoid it for ash. Boxwood goes a very yellow colour.

My experience with water based acrylic finishes is that over time they become a tacky mess if used on something frequently handled. I had to strip the garbage off one chair after the arms went sticky where handled, never again.
By delaney001
#1325194
MikeG. wrote:Yep, be very careful with oil on ash.......unless you actually like the colour of strong stale urine! :)

PS....you need a new circular saw blade.



Ah it’s not my saw, I’ll let the fella that owns it buy a new blade.
By delaney001
#1325195
woodbloke66 wrote:Most oils will turn ash and other light colours a 'familiar' shade of yellow after some time. One solution is to use Osmo Raw and the other is to use a matt Acrylic which I used on this Alan Peters blanket chest in Olive Ash finished earlier this year:

IMG_3315.jpg


IMG_3319.jpg


IMG_3320.jpg


https://www.axminster.co.uk/polyvine-wa ... h-ax715653

I bought the acrylic from Axminster and there's a combination of matt and satin on this job - Rob



That’s a really Lovely piece of work.
That finish has a lovely look to it. Can I ask how many coats that is or do you sand back between coats?
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By MikeG.
#1325210
delaney001 wrote:..........Can I ask how many coats that is or do you sand back between coats?


Sanding between coats isn't "sanding back". Sanding between coats is de-nibbing......the very lightest possible rub just to remove any specks of dust . You are just very lightly abrading the surface of the previous coat at the most. "Sanding back" implies that you are sanding away anything lying above the surface of the wood, just leaving whatever has soaked in, and that very much isn't the case.
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By woodbloke66
#1325841
thetyreman wrote:
nice job on that project Rob, looks immaculate to me =D>


Thanks, much appreciated. This was the first job I'd done in Olive Ash and whilst much was well figured, there were some boards that were proper ash coloured so I decided not to take any chances and go for a finish that would guarantee that the wood's colour wouldn't 'alter' over time.

There were about five coats if I recollect correctly, rubbed down between each with 0000grade wire wool and then thoroughly vacuumed before the next was applied. The final coat was rubbed back and then waxed. The beauty of using an acrylic finish is that each coat dried hard within 30mins so there's no faffing around waiting for stuff to dry - Rob
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By marcros
#1325972
What about a soap finish? I saw it on some chairs and it looked v nice, v matt and worthy of research.

I haven't used it myself so all I can recommend is further research. Don't take my suggestion as a recommendation for just doing it!!
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By woodbloke66
#1325980
marcros wrote:What about a soap finish? I saw it on some chairs and it looked v nice, v matt and worthy of research.

I haven't used it myself so all I can recommend is further research. Don't take my suggestion as a recommendation for just doing it!!

I seem to recollect that Chris Tribe used this sort of finish on some of his Danish styled chairs - Rob