What did you do in your workshop today ?

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Built this for my lovely new Titan plunge saw.
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Packs away nice and easily, I only plan to make a few cuts every week or two.
 

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I received some Simon James holdfasts yesterday and today drilled some holes in my bench for them. I can't believe I survived for so long without them, they are a revelation.

Here's one of them pictured assisting me in drilling the rest of the holes. It's the start of a beautiful friendship. I got one of those crappy drill stands to ensure the holes were straight, seemed to work. Incidentally, does it matter if the holes aren't perfect (aside from being annoying that they aren't straight)? Genuine question.

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In other news I picked up this Makita drill on offer at Screwfix the other day. It is unbelievable. Since buying it I've yet to go through a battery (it came with two 3Ah batteries), it's built half my camper on one charge.

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Finally the gates are finished and hung, taken just over three weeks from putting a spade in the ground to finishing the side panels, I never want to see another gate again.

Mike

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Until the next time. LOL
 

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El Barto said:
I received some Simon James holdfasts yesterday and today drilled some holes in my bench for them. I can't believe I survived for so long without them, they are a revelation.

Here's one of them pictured assisting me in drilling the rest of the holes. It's the start of a beautiful friendship. I got one of those crappy drill stands to ensure the holes were straight, seemed to work. Incidentally, does it matter if the holes aren't perfect (aside from being annoying that they aren't straight)? Genuine question.

/quote]

No, it doesn't matter at all. I did the holes the same way. As you say, the holdfasts are a revelation and I use them all the time. Had them 18 months now.

Just in case you missed it, the notched batten for clamping wood for planing is fantastically useful. http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/the ... ten-video/


Keith
 
I made two oak "ladders" for a plate rack wall unit i'm constructing as part of a bespoke kitchen build i'm currently in the middle of. Nice to have some oak shavings on my workshop floor instead of the usual assorted man made board sawdust.
 
Started the dovetail drawers for the underside of the table saw.

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Chippendale was underpaid in my view, just got to make the other nine now.

Mike
 

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After a couple of decades of thinking about it, I FINALLY coaxed the gib key out and got the flywheel off. (No sense in rushing these things).

My Winter project starts here.

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Had a day of tidying and rearranging the workshop. I have a woodturner's beginners course stating next Saturday and as I have to takes my own gouges I decided that they ought to have edge covers. I got some of that foam pipe lagging and cut appropriately sized soft wood plugs for the ends and using duct tape secured the plugs. Gouges can now be transported with getting the edges nicked.

Also moved some overhead lighting and , don't laugh, fitted a shower curtain across my garage to partition off the woodturning area so that during the winter months I can heat just that portion of the garage - we'll see how successful that is later.

Lastly I've been trying to get a wheel off my bench grinder with absolutely no success at all, I even figured out that the thread is probable reversed to prevent the locking nut from coming loose during operation. I can't lock the spindle and the other wheel is belt driven 90 deg to the main wheel. I've tried jamming the wheel but the damn thing won't budge. (hammer)
 
I have a shower curtain around the lathe & a roller blind behind that, so I'm not laughing. The problem with the shower curtain is that it can't be positioned where I'd like it to be & there is also a large gap at the bottom hence the roller blind as a back stop.

Bench grinder has a right hand thread on the right & left hand thread on the left. You're not the only one with this problem
- http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/tight ... ng-wheels/
 
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This is the grinder that I have - a gift from B-i-L and there simply is no way that I can see to arrest the spindle to undo the nut. I was a photocopier eng. for 20 years and have experience of removing stuck pulleys, gears, bearings etc from their shafts.
 
Can you completely remove the left hand assembly and then grip the motor spindle with mole grips?
 
Hi Naz, yeah I was considering removing that left hand plate to see if there is enough of the spindle to grab hold of. My final act may be to smash the wheel but that's a really last resort. It might be that my B-i-L cranked the nut up too tight. I've had other stuff of his that he's given away that has been cranked up so tight that he's ended up distorting the thing, he has an irrational fear that things will fly off unless done up with a five foot long spanner.
 
I had the same problem with my grinder - amazes me that they don't have a spindle lock. Anyway, I ended up carving a slot in the end of each shaft with a dremel so that I could use a beefy screwdriver to hold one end stay whilst I tightened the other
 
Bob Graham":1uq135qv said:
This is the grinder that I have - a gift from B-i-L and there simply is no way that I can see to arrest the spindle to undo the nut. I was a photocopier eng. for 20 years and have experience of removing stuck pulleys, gears, bearings etc from their shafts.

Given your experience I'm probably stating the obvious, but.......

Is it a left-hand thread???
 
If the wheel rotates freely I have often had good success using inertia to help things along.
Get a well fitting long spanner on the nut, with the grinder sat on a flat surface and facing you push the spanner as far away from you as possible now smartly bring it round in the direction of normal rotation so that the spanner strikes the surface and comes to an abrupt halt. The inertia in the wheel will try to keep it moving and has never failed to loosen the nut after a few tries.
Hopefully this makes sense, it is easy to do but not to describe.

James
 
Thanks DTR. I suspect that is a reverse thread, I did mention that in the original post but no foul for suggesting it, thanks.
 
Bob Graham":bj5qolke said:
Thanks DTR. I suspect that is a reverse thread, I did mention that in the original post but no foul for suggesting it, thanks.

Sorry, don't know how I missed that :doh:
 
OK, resolved! =D> The beep beep beep thing has the spindles, yes both wheels threaded conventionally i.e righty tighty lefty loosey. :roll: (hammer) (hammer) (hammer)

All I have to to it now, hopefully is dress the new wheel which I can see has a deep scratch, gouge along some of the sharpening surface.
 
Today, I borrowed various dust extraction bits from my jointer/ thicknesser and adapted them to use on my lathe.
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