upgrdding a stanley plane iron to lie neilson blade iron

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head clansman

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Hi all

thinking of buying a 2" plane iron from lie neilson which is A2 grading and a i think about 3.2 m thick compared to the stanley 2" blade which is just 1/8 th thick .

Anyway was wondering will the Y yoke adjuster need lengthening because of the extra thickness with the new blade and possible new chipbreaker . anyone done this before can anyone shed any light on this as i can't imagine to be the first to try this ?. hc
 
Be careful that you get the right sort of LN blade to fit a Record or Stanley plane. The standard LN blades will only fit their planes as the rectangular slot in the chipbreaker is in the wrong place. In answer to the 'Y' lever or yoke question, it will need to be made longer because of the extra thickness of the blade. I have made a standard Record yoke longer by silver soldering on a piece of tool steel...but it's very fiddly to do and can only be done on a yoke made from cast iron, 'Y' levers from more modern planes, including Cliftons, appear to be made from cheese - Rob :wink:
 
head clansman":3afe8cxl said:
Hi all

thinking of buying a 2" plane iron from lie neilson which is A2 grading and a i think about 3.2 m thick compared to the stanley 2" blade which is just 1/8 th thick .

Anyway was wondering will the Y yoke adjuster need lengthening because of the extra thickness with the new blade and possible new chipbreaker . anyone done this before can anyone shed any light on this as i can't imagine to be the first to try this ?. hc

You have said one blade is 3.2mm and the other 1/8 inch thick which are pretty much exactly the same.

Jon
 
HI all

Ok so i made a mistake , the stanley blade is APPROX 1/8 th and the lie neilsen is as thick as they make them about half as thick again . hc
 
head clansman":1a9lbvmf said:
HI all

Ok so i made a mistake , the stanley blade is APPROX 1/8 th and the lie neilsen is as thick as they make them about half as thick again . hc
...but you'll still need to modify the 'Y' lever :wink: - Rob
 
head clansman":134e6xht said:
HI all

Ok so i made a mistake , the stanley blade is APPROX 1/8 th and the lie neilsen is as thick as they make them about half as thick again . hc
I think you'll find your Stanley blade is as little as 1/16" (1.6mm) thick. Lie-Nielsen make replacement irons for Stanley type planes at 0.095" (2.4mm) thick or for their own planes at 1/8" (3.2mm) thick.

If you buy an LN Stanley-type replacement iron, you should get away without having to extend the yoke or file the mouth. Just adjust the frog.

If you buy an LN-type iron (at 1/8" thick) you'll most likely need to adjust all three (yoke, frog & mouth). There are a number of threads on this site about this, usually regarding fitting Clifton irons to Stanley-type planes. Clifton irons are 3.1mm thick, i.e. a tad thinner than the LN iron.

Good luck. I still have to do the same to fit a Clifton iron to an old Record or Stanley.

Regarding Lie-Nielsen cap irons: their website mentions custom cap-irons. Just send in a couple of dimensions and they'll send a cap iron to suit your plane (better still, buy a Clifton 2-piece cap iron :) ).

Cheers, Vann.
 
head clansman":37pbvm3b said:
Hi all

thinking of buying a 2" plane iron from lie neilson which is A2 grading and a i think about 3.2 m thick compared to the stanley 2" blade which is just 1/8 th thick .

Anyway was wondering will the Y yoke adjuster need lengthening because of the extra thickness with the new blade and possible new chipbreaker . anyone done this before can anyone shed any light on this as i can't imagine to be the first to try this ?. hc

Depends on the plane

I have doen this on a Stanley #5 and Record #6 with no problems and no issues at all - the blade just fitted. I filed the mouth of the #6 slightly to get a good fit.
 
hi ll

I tried to solder a piece of old chisel blade to the y yoke yesterday , ground cleaned the piece of chisel blade and the end of the y yoke first , the solder took ok to the chisel blade , but i could not get it to take to the y yoke , it just kept running off in small beads just how hot do i have to get the y yoke for it to take to able to solder them together.
 
head clansman":1vkostqi said:
hi ll

I tried to solder a piece of old chisel blade to the y yoke yesterday , ground cleaned the piece of chisel blade and the end of the y yoke first , the solder took ok to the chisel blade , but i could not get it to take to the y yoke , it just kept running off in small beads just how hot do i have to get the y yoke for it to take to able to solder them together.
You'll need to use silver solder with the appropriate flux (ordinary plumbers solder isn't strong enough) Both joining surfaces need to be clean (no grease or dirt) and then each is painted with the flux (Easy-flo is the stuff I used) Cramp together with some twisted thin gauge copper wire ('leccy stuff) apply a small bit (2mm) of solder then play a fine gas torch flame over it to bring it to red heat. If everything is good then you'll see the solder melt and flow between the two bits to be joined, but get any one of the three things wrong (dirty or no flux or not enough heat) and the process won't work
Edit - the 'Y' lever must be made from cast iron...if it's a new cheesy one it'll melt :cry: - Rob
 
If you do a search under hand tools for Y levers on May 23rd 2007 all is revealed with pics.
 
newt":3do4bwxo said:
If you do a search under hand tools for Y levers on May 23rd 2007 all is revealed with pics.
...the other alternative of course is that you can machine one out of a solid brass billet :wink: :whistle: - Rob
 
Hi ALL

My lie nielsen blade and chip breaker arrived to day , i have tried to fit it just temporally in the plane, all is well, it will fit with some small adjustment to the width of the mouth , but i do have to modify the length of the y lever to compensate for the extra thickness to take up the slack there. hopefully should be no problem doing so once i can source the 0.4mm brass shim from somewhere to shape over the end of y lever to be able to lengthen it , I can get the silver solder from axminster , already have flux .

Any one know where i can source the the brass from in small quantities.hc
 
I used ordinary plumbers solder for the Yolk extension. I was astute enough to drill a 1.5 mm hole in the Yolk and the Brass extension. Pinned and soldered. Still holding up 3 months later.
 
I think that extending the yoke lever is the most elegant way of accommodating a thick iron, but it is sometimes difficult to do.

In Good Woodworking Issue 180:40, Autumn 2006 I wrote a description of how to use silver-rich soft solder to fix two tags on the underside of a cap iron.

I seem to recall a well-illustrated posting on this forum by a contributor who did this job, but don't know how to find it.

Jeff Gorman
 
On a similar note, is is any more straight forward to put a LN (or other quality blade) into a stanley 9 1/2? I have one (photos on other thread) I am going to restore.

Simon.
 
MIGNAL":2ouigfkt said:
I used ordinary plumbers solder for the Yolk extension. I was astute enough to drill a 1.5 mm hole in the Yolk and the Brass extension. Pinned and soldered. Still holding up 3 months later.

This is the other way to do the job if the 'Y' lever is of the 'cheese' variety, except I didn't solder but used epoxy instead to join the tool steel toe to the yoke...even more fiddly though :x - Rob
 
SVB":28cwdg8r said:
On a similar note, is is any more straight forward to put a LN (or other quality blade) into a stanley 9 1/2? I have one (photos on other thread) I am going to restore.

Simon.

Yes - no problem. Just make sure that the replacement blade you get is the right width and has the right "slot" configuration for the adjuster mechanism on the plane.

Cheers

Karl
 
By the way, even when folk have got a thicker blade to work, they might find that they need a matched cap iron.

It can happen that since the adjustment system relies on the aperture in the cap iron, that the adjuster knob will reach the limit of its travel before the blade has been fed sufficiently forward.

Jeff Gorman
www.amgron.clara.net
 
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