Sofa Table

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Does this belong on this forum? There are a few machines used to rough out. I am not a purist. However hand tools are my preference for shaping, joints and finishing.

After a few final tweaks, the design has been settled, and the build begins. This is the front elevation, with the body in Hard Maple ...

The top ...

... will be West Australian Rose Sheoak (think Lacewood).

This comes from my local urban salvage supplier, Derek Doak "The Timberbloke". Here you can see the 2" thick slab was saved from a fire ...

Re-sawn and book matched, the 1250mm top will be elegant and simple, and still hopefully stunning ..

I decided to start the build with the aprons. The legs will follow next. They are complex in themselves, having multiple angles - more on that in a later post. However, the aprons are the key element as they are both bowed and receive a curve on the underside. They also need to support a drawer from one side.

Here is a plan ..

I have already made up all the templates needed for the table top, the legs, the bow of the apron, and the curve on the underside of the apron.

I decided that the core of the apron would be pine, which will be wrapped in Hard Maple. The alternate choices were either to build laminations of hard maple, or create all from solid maple. The end design seemed to me to be the easiest to build to ensure the support for an internal drawer along the length of the table, as well as economical for the maple, which is in limited supply in Australia in the size needed.

The bow front is marked out and bandsawed close to the line, and then cleaned up with a spokeshave ...

Save the waste, replace the bow on it to secure for the next step ..

.. and now it is ready to plough out a 5/16" groove for the drawer blades ...

I am planing into the grain, so take fine shavings until the blade is below the surface, and then crank it up ...

These are the drawer blades. I later replaced them with wider pieces since I had forgotten to take into account the 5mm thick internal veneer (the fence for the drawer).

The curve for the underside of the apron is marked and the waste removed ...

The front of the apron will have a 5mm Hard Maple veneer. Here it is being finished ...

This is sawn slightly oversize, and then glued to the apron blank. Can't have too many clamps ...

This was left overnight for the liquid hide glue to dry, and then trimmed down with a plane and a spokeshave ...

This will give a better idea of the curve to the underside. It is not intended to be a dramatic curve - simply to soften the lines.

Here are the replacement drawer blades. They will not be glued until the the aprons are attached to the legs as they will get in the way of sawing tenons.

Here is a view of the bow. Also note that the "fence" for the drawer has been glued in ...

Another view of the bow, as it is likely to appear when assembled ..

This is roughly how the 1/2" tenons will be situated (just a quick pencilling in to provide a look).

And at that point I will end. Next stage is shaping the legs.

Any comments and suggestions are welcomed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[AndyT]

Derek, I'm not sure if you are writing this up as you go, or going back over a finished project.

Assuming it's the former, and this pic is a mock-up of the finished item

have a look at that photo and ask yourself what first pops into your head.

For me, it looks like you took the lid off a coffin and made it into a table.

I know that sounds harsh but please understand that I mean it as an honest comment. If it looks the same way after you've put hours of skilled work into it, and then it strikes you, well, that might not be what you want.

I can also see that it's a symmetrical shape, so not exactly the same. Also, the dimensions could be quite different. And it might never be seen from that angle.

So I hope it's just me, from that one photo, and I'm worrying unnecessarily. I'm sure the quality of the work will be as impressive as ever.

 

[Trafalgar]

Too much overhang I think, could be photographic distortion. Base unit needs to be longer/wider. Your workbench is wearing in beautifully I must say.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Andy

I like coffins. However, my wife could use it on me!

This sofa table is to replace an existing sofa table that I built 12 years ago ... one that my wife likes (and I do not). So, this one had better be bloody good, or it will get turfed out!

The existing sofa table ..

The angle I took the photo of that top was not the best choice. It is longer and slimmer. This one may better ..

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Trafalgar]

Looks good... it was definitely a photographic defect. I'm bidding on a boat-tail shaped dining table that would have a very interesting undercarriage. We'll see. This one will be worth the cost of professional photography. Keep your fingers crossed -- could use the money.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Thanks Charles

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[David C]

Pedantic? Moi?
Is this really a Sofa table?

They became popular at the beginning of the 18th Century. Having two drawers, (fake drawer fronts on the other side), with fall flaps at either end.
On a good piece there would be rule joints with the flaps on ogee shaped supports working on knuckle joint hinges.

I built a Walnut version nearly 40 years ago. It is in my second book.

The subject is particularly relevant to me as we have just shot my next DVD. This describes the making of the Rule & Knuckle joint.
Best wishes,
David Charlesworth

 

[nev]

Pedantic? Moi?
Is this really a Sofa table?

They became popular at the beginning of the 18th Century. Having two drawers, (fake drawer fronts on the other side), with fall flaps at either end.
On a good piece there would be rule joints with the flaps on ogee shaped supports working on knuckle joint hinges.

I built a Walnut version nearly 40 years ago. It is in my second book.

The subject is particularly relevant to me as we have just shot my next DVD. This describes the making of the Rule & Knuckle joint.
Best wishes,
David Charlesworth

Its a table and it goes by the sofa!

The man puts all that skill and effort into creating a fine piece of furniture, takes the time to share it with fellow minded people around the globe and your reaction is to slate its title and promote your own book and dvd. =D>

 

[G S Haydon]

Your work always belongs on the Hand Tool section, Derek. You produce top class work.

Really like the sourcing of the timber and also looking forward to seeing the grain pattern once fully finished.

Interesting to see the Veritas large plough working. I think it's great they've got one together. I'm interested to see if the "Quansheng" people get a large plough to market to compliment their small plough.

I really like the delicate feel of the leg frames of your original table you made a while back, I think also that the light Maple will contrast very well with your native timber on your current project. The veneer method is a welcome reminder that not everything has to be solid species, and how often that can be quite wasteful .

It might be the photo but it makes me think of Bambi with a surfboard on her back. The tea set to the right highlights this lack of balance even more. I look forward to being proved wrong but the overhang looks too much.

Then next thing I make in my own time, if I ever get there, will be a copy. So I admire you for being original. Looking forward to the next bit of the process.

 

[dzj]

Slim, elegant design. I like it.
Perhaps not suitable for people who have large dogs.
Table top stock looks promising. Will you leave some of the sapwood?

 

[lurker]

Pedantic? Moi?
Is this really a Sofa table?

They became popular at the beginning of the 18th Century. Having two drawers, (fake drawer fronts on the other side), with fall flaps at either end.
On a good piece there would be rule joints with the flaps on ogee shaped supports working on knuckle joint hinges.

I built a Walnut version nearly 40 years ago. It is in my second book.

The subject is particularly relevant to me as we have just shot my next DVD. This describes the making of the Rule & Knuckle joint.
Best wishes,
David Charlesworth

Its a table and it goes by the sofa!

The man puts all that skill and effort into creating a fine piece of furniture, takes the time to share it with fellow minded people around the globe and your reaction is to slate its title and promote your own book and dvd. =D>

Nev, I didn't read David's words like that, he was "making conversation" and adding other details and expanding the discussion. Sent me to look at his book for a similar design.
Equally Derek doesn't post to just gain congratulations on his endeavours but again wants to spark conversation.

 

[David C]

I'm sure Derek won't mind having his leg pulled.

It is difficult to promote a book which is out of print, and a DVD which won't be on sale till next Christmas.

David

 

[lurker]

Having now looked at the book I realise David was referring to the knuckle joint not a table.
But it was useful as it reminded me about a plane conversion that I have plans for it had forgotten where I had seen it.

I will not be buying the dvd anyhow

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Too much overhang I think, could be photographic distortion. Base unit needs to be longer/wider. Your workbench is wearing in beautifully I must say.

Charles, you have no idea how I went back and forth on the positioning of the legs. If you look at the mock up, you will see the outlines. Moving the legs further outward makes it appear more graceful, but it also makes it a little bland. Moving the legs in more, creates more style, but also less grace. The current position is the best balance, as I see it.

This was the first rendition ...

.. and this is a little more than where it ended ...

The workbench is well used. i built it about 4 years ago now and have yet to re-surface it. The oak top has been amazingly stable.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Pedantic? Moi?
Is this really a Sofa table?

They became popular at the beginning of the 18th Century. Having two drawers, (fake drawer fronts on the other side), with fall flaps at either end.
On a good piece there would be rule joints with the flaps on ogee shaped supports working on knuckle joint hinges.

I built a Walnut version nearly 40 years ago. It is in my second book.

The subject is particularly relevant to me as we have just shot my next DVD. This describes the making of the Rule & Knuckle joint.
Best wishes,
David Charlesworth

Hi David

I really wanted to find a way to use a knuckle joint in this table!

The original design, when the legs were further apart, was to have a hidden drawer at each end. With the increase in the overhang, there is less extension available, and so I will just have a single drawer on a long runner from one end. That is the reason for the design of the aprons - that they can accommodate full length drawer blades. The drawer will not be evident from the side, and be secured in with a Quaker lock.

Perhaps fall flaps would provide better access to two drawers, but their presence would be like a sign saying "hidden drawers this way!".

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Slim, elegant design. I like it.
Perhaps not suitable for people who have large dogs.
Table top stock looks promising. Will you leave some of the sapwood?

Like our goldie with his wagging tail? :shock:

I am not a fan of live edges, but it can be interesting to use sapwood to create a little asymmetry, which I do like. I plan to saw out the stock into a rectangle as it will need to be resawn and bookmatched (not wide enough on its own). A little of the sapwood on the outside is preferred to down the centre (I am also not a fan of racing stripes!). We shall see down the track.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[nev]

Pedantic? Moi?
Is this really a Sofa table?

They became popular at the beginning of the 18th Century. Having two drawers, (fake drawer fronts on the other side), with fall flaps at either end.
On a good piece there would be rule joints with the flaps on ogee shaped supports working on knuckle joint hinges.

I built a Walnut version nearly 40 years ago. It is in my second book.

The subject is particularly relevant to me as we have just shot my next DVD. This describes the making of the Rule & Knuckle joint.
Best wishes,
David Charlesworth

Its a table and it goes by the sofa!

The man puts all that skill and effort into creating a fine piece of furniture, takes the time to share it with fellow minded people around the globe and your reaction is to slate its title and promote your own book and dvd. =D>

Nev, I didn't read David's words like that, he was "making conversation" and adding other details and expanding the discussion. Sent me to look at his book for a similar design.
Equally Derek doesn't post to just gain congratulations on his endeavours but again wants to spark conversation.

My apologies to Mr. Charlesworth, it is now obvious that you and Mr. Cohen are familiar with each other and your comment was not a snipe as it appeared to me, but friendly banter.
Thanks too to lurker for pointing it out to me.

 

[G S Haydon]

After looking at your drawing of the new table more closely I can see there is much less of an overhang! Looks promising.

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

In part I, work had begun on the boat-shaped sofa table ...

We left off last time with the bow aprons completed ...

Before I began the legs, which I had planned for this weekend past, I had another look at the aprons and decided that they could be slimmed down, which would enable the legs to be slimmed as well. This involved removing a 10mm strip from the centre on the table saw, and glueing the two sections up again. We could now begin on the legs.

The blanks for the legs were 75 x 40mm (3" x 1 1/2") Hard Maple. Using a template, sections with the straightest grain could be marked out ...

.. and then sawn out on the bandsaw ...

It was easier to plane the concave side and spokeshave the convex side ...

Any irregularities were smoothed with a scraper ...

Below are the completed basic legs and slimmed down aprons (with drawer blades removed) ..

The legs would be joined to the apron with mortice and tenons. This had its challenges as the apron, being bowed, has only one flat side. In retrospect, it would have been easier to have extended the maple veneer on the inside all the way, and not stop it short where the tenons would be formed. As a result, it was not possible to mark the tenons with a gauge. Fortunately, the ends were square and became the reference side ...

The mortice and tenon is 1/2" wide. The 1/3 Rule is used, and the mortice extends 2/3 in the leg.

The shoulders are knifed, undercut, and then sawn ...

The cheeks are sawn close to the line, but not at close as I usually do. I am leaving a little extra waste for fine tuning ...

My strategy is to level the side of the cheeks parallel to the flat side of the apron using a router plane (David Charlesworth's technique from about 20 years ago) ..

The other side has to be chiseled as the bowed apron does not permit use of the router plane.

Accuracy of the tenon is checked with a template ...

There is a another reason for the absolute precision here - the inside of the legs must align precisely with the inside face of the apron as a drawer will be fitted from the side.

In the photo below, the position for the mortice is transferred from the tenon. At the rear is a straight edge ensuring all lines up ...

Once done, the mortices were made. After chopping a couple in the hard maple, I thought "this is for the birds", and used a router on the remainder. Half inch wide and 1 1/4" deep in hard maple is not fun!

Before assembling anything, there is some shaping to be done on the legs.

The legs not only curve in elevation, but the front curves in parallel with the apron and the table top ..

The insides of the legs will be tapered, and this will be completed after the outer curve is shaped.

The curve is simply planed to the lines, and then sanded to removed any irregularities ...

Below you can see two sets of apron/legs. The right hand is shaped, while the left side remains to be done. The apron is set back by 2mm to create a shadow line ...

This is the final photo for this segment. The taper has yet to be done. The mortice and tenon will be drawbored for a tight finish. The inside faces have been cleaned up (too many photos already, so there are lots of small details I have chosen to omit).

This will now give you a better idea of what I am trying to achieve.

Comments and discussion welcomed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[G S Haydon]

Looks good, I like you're awareness of where fit is critical and being prepared to making the tenon fit well.