Hornbeam
Established Member
This project was to use up some English ash I had left over from some doors I made for a friend. The material was all 1" rough sawn with no large pieces, which meant I had to make the ends up out of multiple pieces.
The ends were made up first and are castellated
The castellations are all 40mm X 20mm and the wider pieces are 80mm X20mm. All the pieces except the back outside piece were glued together with biscuits to align and reinforce the joint and dominos 50mm down from the top and bottom. This was all then cut accurately to length
The bottom of the cabinet was made up from pieces and a 40mm wide stretcher biscuited onto the front
The base is housed into the sides and the front stretcher is dominoed into the wider front
An internal frame is made up to act as the drawer runner . This is a simple dominoed construction but the rear joints are not glues to allow for differential movement of the carcase sides (cross grain) and the drawer runners (long grain. This frame is set in 50mm from the front to allow for the thickness of the inset doors and the thickness of the drawer front
Before first stage of the cabinet glue up, curves cut out to allow access to the drawer front (instead of handles are routed
The sides base and frame is sanded to 150 grit
The sides, base and drawer runner assembly are then glued up. Only the front and back of the drawer runner frame are glued where they are dominoed into the sides
Once everything is glued the back of the cabinet is cleaned up and a face frame attached so the sides now appear symmetrical. Doing it this way means that any slight step between the sides and the base can be planed out.
The drawer runners are now fitted as access later will be limited. These are screwed and glued to the frame except at the back where there is no glue and it is slot screwed . Note the gaps to allow for movement. The drawer will be slightly narrower than the cabinet to allow the drawer to open when the doors are opened to 90'. There will be an infill piece to hide the ends of he drawer runners
A top frame to act as the upper drawer kicker and to screw the top onto is then made the front and back are dovetailed into the sides and the kicker is dominoed into the front/back. Again the front is glued and the back is left dry with a small gap. The frame is flush with the front but inset 21mm from the back to allow for the back panel
The dovetail at the back is set into the wider panel but I felt the dimensions were too small to do this at the front
Here the dovetail is across the butt joint in the side panel. While this is not ideal I had specifically reinforced this joint with a domino so feel confident it wont cause any problems
Will write up part 2 tomorrow
The ends were made up first and are castellated
The castellations are all 40mm X 20mm and the wider pieces are 80mm X20mm. All the pieces except the back outside piece were glued together with biscuits to align and reinforce the joint and dominos 50mm down from the top and bottom. This was all then cut accurately to length
The bottom of the cabinet was made up from pieces and a 40mm wide stretcher biscuited onto the front
The base is housed into the sides and the front stretcher is dominoed into the wider front
An internal frame is made up to act as the drawer runner . This is a simple dominoed construction but the rear joints are not glues to allow for differential movement of the carcase sides (cross grain) and the drawer runners (long grain. This frame is set in 50mm from the front to allow for the thickness of the inset doors and the thickness of the drawer front
Before first stage of the cabinet glue up, curves cut out to allow access to the drawer front (instead of handles are routed
The sides base and frame is sanded to 150 grit
The sides, base and drawer runner assembly are then glued up. Only the front and back of the drawer runner frame are glued where they are dominoed into the sides
Once everything is glued the back of the cabinet is cleaned up and a face frame attached so the sides now appear symmetrical. Doing it this way means that any slight step between the sides and the base can be planed out.
The drawer runners are now fitted as access later will be limited. These are screwed and glued to the frame except at the back where there is no glue and it is slot screwed . Note the gaps to allow for movement. The drawer will be slightly narrower than the cabinet to allow the drawer to open when the doors are opened to 90'. There will be an infill piece to hide the ends of he drawer runners
A top frame to act as the upper drawer kicker and to screw the top onto is then made the front and back are dovetailed into the sides and the kicker is dominoed into the front/back. Again the front is glued and the back is left dry with a small gap. The frame is flush with the front but inset 21mm from the back to allow for the back panel
The dovetail at the back is set into the wider panel but I felt the dimensions were too small to do this at the front
Here the dovetail is across the butt joint in the side panel. While this is not ideal I had specifically reinforced this joint with a domino so feel confident it wont cause any problems
Will write up part 2 tomorrow
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