Scroll saw...techniques? Advice.

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Dino

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Hi guys. So I'm about to acquire a scroll saw soon (tomorrow, all things going as planned) and I have a few projects in mind but I need some advice.

I figure I'll tell you what I am after and someone can tell me the best way to go about it.

What I'd like is to create some coasters like these (https://www.etsy.com/listing/125188154/ ... pe=gallery) with a different wood in the middle.

Now. Obviously you're going to tell me cut the shape out of the larger piece of wood and cut the symbol out of the other wood and put them together...but my question is how to make sure the key fits the lock, as it were.

Thanks!
 
Take one slice of wood A, one slice of wood B, tape them one on top of the other then put the pattern on top and cut them both as if they were one pice and you'll be able to mix and match the cutout pieces.
 
Hi Dino,

If you want your coasters to have a sunken look like the Etsy ones, they are made in two thin metal layers. One layer is the base with the backing colour and the top layer has the design cut in it then both layers glued together and trimmed.

You could achieve a similar look on your scroll saw by tilting your saw table to approx 3 to 5 deg so the cut out insert can be pushed part way through but not all the way. Then you paint and glue your insert in and sand off the back and you have a coaster with a sunken looking centre design.

Then be prepared to make thousands more when your family and friends see them!!!! :lol: :lol:
 
I think I will try some with a sunken look and some without. Walney Col! Thank you! That was the advice I was looking for! So simple...that I feel dumb for not thinking of it on my own.

One more question...how do I cut inside the wood without actually making an incision? I assume I have to drill a small hole to slip the blade into?
 
Dino":1e925xmp said:
I assume I have to drill a small hole to slip the blade into?
Yes. What size hole you can get away with (the smaller it is the easier it is to disguise) depends on what size blade you use so the rule of thumb is to use the smallest pinless blade you can. The holes I drill are regularly less than 1mm.

Col.
 
I'm unsure if the blades are universal so I'll have to wait till I get ahold of the saw to see these things. I'll clearly need to buy a smaller drill bit too.
 
If the saw's new odds are that the blades you get with it will be on the large side and have pins in the ends. If that's the case you'll need to add some pinless blades to your shopping list, preferably a few of every other size (1, 3, 5, 7, etc) then set about finding out what sort of blade works best for you and your machine.

Col.
 
A lot of great suggestions and comments already. The only tips I could add Dino, is to drill the hole in either the bottom left or bottom right of the inside shape and it should be almost invisible.

The angle of the table will dictate how far the inner piece will be recessed. The greater the angle the more it will be recessed and there is a direct correlation with the thickness of the wood. In other words, if the angle is too great the inner piece will fall straight through :shock:

The other thing is that it makes a difference whether you cut clockwise or anticlockwise. One way the inner piece will be recessed whilst the other way the inner piece will stand proud . . . . . sorry but its a while since I cut any angled work and I can't remember which 'wise' produces which. Best experiment with some scrap first.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Barry
 
just one last tip, the finer blade you use the better fit you will get especially at corners - prepare to become hooked :D

just had a look on the website you mentioned, looks like they are made by just cutting the 'hole' and applying the coaster to a felt backing - simples! Hmmm thinking now.....
 
One more point is try to get woods that don't expand at different rates ( is suspect grain angle is important but could not qualify that), although on the coasters i didn't have a problem, on my large breadboard i think i did :), these were my first attempts at this and i enjoyed the learning it took several attempts to get the angle of the table just right :)
on the breadboard you can see the tiny entrance hole by the dogs legs, it gets filled with wood dust and glue later on :)
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Beautiful work bernie!

I shall keep you all updated on my projects so you can all laugh at me and give me advice / critique!

Just want to give a shout out to Bryan and Martin who I met today and got a scroll saw from! This forum is full of fantastic, friendly people and I'm glad to be a part of the community!
 
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