Table saw advice?

shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Shop deals on ebay
UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Cabinetman said:
Yes, a fence like that is wrong, as it is on my SCM delivered yesterday!
Sedgwick- on my one the fence is only held at the near end and can be slid back to the correct length, as you said that’s invaluable when crosscutting.
A short fence isn’t a problem at all, simply keep holding the wood to be cut against it and after the cut the wood can twist and move all it wants. Much better than the wood flying back at you.
Ian
Click to expand...
If your machine is a combi the long fence is for the planer but is also handy on a panel saw. You can add a short false fence to it as necessary, or buy a separate short fence which will also be adjustable. The long fence would be adjustable too but you wouldn't want half of it sticking out frontwards.
The long fence on many machines may need steadying at the far end - I Gclamp on a scrap of wood.
 
Last edited:
Last edited:
Jameshow said:
Ps I'll pm you my delivery address, can you put a steel framed building on the same lorry? Cheers!!
Click to expand...
Edited my post "It's a small panel but big general purpose saw"
Says so in the blurb; 1600mm, not 2400 as per common panel size.
It weighs about twice as much with twice the motor power of my Minimax Lab300 which is a good sized combi but not much of a panel saw at all!
 
Last edited:
For the record the Laguna tilts to the left, that was a big reason I bought one, the Kity 419 (right tilt) is a cracking little saw but with the add on sliding carriage makes it a very versatile but still a little saw, (mine actually sit's under the outfeed table of my Laguna saw)

One thought I had, @steve355 with your situation, is to possibly think about a vertical carrier to run along your fence, you could work out a method of clamping your stock to it and push the whole jig along the fence, its a solution I use for cutting angles up to 45 degrees.

If I get to the W shop tomorrow I'll take some piccy's of both saws and the jig I use.
 
Cabinetman said:
Yes, a fence like that is wrong, as it is on my SCM delivered yesterday!
Sedgwick- on my one the fence is only held at the near end and can be slid back to the correct length, as you said that’s invaluable when crosscutting.
A short fence isn’t a problem at all, simply keep holding the wood to be cut against it and after the cut the wood can twist and move all it wants. Much better than the wood flying back at you.
Ian
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you are describing as being wrong. The adjustable rip fence on every SCM (also Altendorf and Martin) sliding saw I have used or seen is adjusted so the outfeed side of the fence is on an imaginary 45-degree line that starts at the saw blade arbor and extends to follow the width of the material being ripped. Here are screen shots from the Operator's Manual for my SCM SC2C showing the setting of the rip fence.

SC2C-Rip-Fence-2.png


SC2C-Rip-Fence-1.png


I have worked in and visited dozens of German production houses using large format sliding saws. Without exception, the rip fence is set according to the Owner's Manual when used as the only reference. When the material is referenced on the sliding bed and the rip fence is used as a stop block, the shops use a cut-down section of fence that ends well before the cutting edge of the blade.

For me, the rip fence is now a moot point. Since making the positioner for use on the sliding bed over three years ago, I have not used the rip fence.
 
Well thanks for all the suggestions but I think for now I’ve talked myself out of changing it, for a while anyway.

I’ve improved the vibration a lot, sorted out a lot of the backlash, and found ways to get around the tilting table challenges more safely. I’ve ordered some lovely BSW set screws to secure the fence guide rail better. I found a nice sharp rip blade in the pile of vintage blades that came with it which is giving a better finish.

When the weather improves I can weld up a stand for it that would have a low shelf below for my thicknesser (I’m a hand tool enthusiast you see) for ballast and get some anti vibration levelling feet.
 
That's probably not a bad conclusion to reach. Your saw looks like a basically decent bit of kit.
If the blade runs true (no wobble) and is parallel to the slot in the table, the other issues can be sorted.
As you can weld, it will be fairly simple to replace the rail that the fence runs on with something that doesn't deflect - even weld an 'L' angle to the underside, turned in towards the saw to add rigidity to the existing rail. Better still, fabricate a Biesemeyer style fence, similar to the diy in the link I included earlier.
While I now have a SIP 01332 table saw, I have also held onto my previous, smaller portable saw and with various tweaks (including a decent blade) it remains a very useful, if basic tool. For all it's worth there was no point in selling it.
I actually wrestled with the question of whether to seriously upgrade it and build it into a stable bench, add a really good fence etc. This would have had a cost, lost the portability and have been a compromise at best. Luckily the SIP cropped up, very nearly new and at £500, so I bought that. My point, if there is one, upgrade, tweak, tune-up for sure but don't overspend. Just also keep an eye out for a suitable table saw at a good price - maybe a nice, old Startrite??
 
Wood is good. I made this heavy little table for my pillar drill, firmly bolted on.
Transformative - very solid/steady, quieter running etc.
I'd do same for your saw, slightly bigger than the saw-table itself, heavy timbers etc

Screenshot 2024-03-06 at 11.08.49.png
 
Jacob said:
Wood is good. I made this heavy little table for my pillar drill, firmly bolted on.
Transformative - very solid/steady, quieter running etc.
I'd do same for your saw, slightly bigger than the saw-table itself, heavy timbers
Click to expand...


Not a bad idea, wood is a lot cheaper than angle iron, and arguably has dampening properties. Typically I’ve made them from steel, very solid, very heavy.

The crazy thing is the amount of angle iron it takes. 6 x width + 6 x length + 4 x height. Add the steel shelves and it weighs a lot.

My current table saw stand is wood, but the problem is mainly the small footprint and high centre of gravity, I think.

IMG_2718.jpeg
66AEB123-DCDC-488D-999A-A3B03A88B4EB.jpeg
 
Last edited:
TomGW said:
As you can weld, it will be fairly simple to replace the rail that the fence runs on with something that doesn't deflect - even weld an 'L' angle to the underside, turned in towards the saw to add rigidity to the existing rail. Better still, fabricate a Biesemeyer style fence, similar to the diy in the link I included earlier.
Click to expand...
I think, on balance, my fence is robust. It’s a chunk of cast iron. It’s the rail that’s the problem. If (only if) I extend the fence, and I think I have to, the lever arm on the longer fence is enough to slightly distort the guide rail - only by a tiny amount, but if the fence is longer it can move by a couple of mm at its extremity.

IMG_4735.jpeg


The guide rail has 2 set screws. If I add a 3rd, just before the ruler starts on the pic below, I think it will strengthen it enough so it can’t flex. I reckon that will do the trick.

IMG_4736.jpeg
 
You're on the right track considering welding.
Anything else shouldn't be considered for that tilting table machine really,
as tilting the machine in order to keep the table flat for those cuts is the safest bet,
whilst also welding up something like in Steve Maskery's new video for those dangerous cutsin which you need a full length fence and Shaw guards, like you've seen in Roy Sutton's videos. It's a wonder you haven't found that out already.
Lookin to loose your fingers with such disinterest, and frankly surprised you haven't been warned already.



Sad that most of the above posters have felt the need to leave,
Can't say I blame them though.
Hope that helps some of ye, as you can see, it takes quite a bit of study if you wish to be safe.
Two push sticks on their own, ain't gonna cut the mustard everytime.
Really raising the bar there with that particular operation/machine.

Over and out.
 
@steve355 I mentioned the carrier I use to run along my TS fence, some pictures attached that may explain more clearly:

carrier 3.jpgcarrier 2.jpgcarrier 1.jpg

I misinformed you as well, the little Kity 419 tilts left!, but is very compact, couple of pictures of my set up, showing the size difference between the Laguna and the Kity, and in each case the fence can go either side of the blade.

2 saws.jpgsaws.jpg
 

Similar threads

F
Cutting down the grain with a bandsaw - problem.
Replies
17
Views
848
deema
deema
Essex Barn Workshop
What saw to saw a saw?
2
Replies
21
Views
908
Agent_zed
A
J
Elektra Beckum Kgs 300 not cutting straight
Replies
0
Views
327
Juanhandverk
J
M
Cutting the lid off the box
Replies
9
Views
902
Hornbeam
H
aesmith
BAS316 Bandsaw Fence Improvement/Replacement
Replies
0
Views
114
aesmith
aesmith

Latest posts

Back
Top