no 7

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cheekyboy

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Hi all has any one read any good reviews on a clifton no 7 or lie nielsen no 7 or a lie nielsen 7-1/2 low angle jointer ?

Am thinking of getting one of the three but really can't decide :? :deer
 
There was a discussion on this subject a while back. Search for "LN low angle jointer or LN no7 jointer". The Clifton No.7 is also mentioned by one owner. Last posted 22 Jun 2007 - but still relevant I think.

Cheers, Vann.
 
I'm with Modernist.. and I am a Dinosaur when it comes to my old Stanleys!

My favourite LN is my No. 62 Low Angle Jack.

I didn't quite take to the bronze bodied No. 4, but I might try the cast iron version.

HTH

John :)
 
Funnily enough I was talking to a guy who has bought the Veritas low angle No 7 only last week and he is rather disappointed with it, although I think he has misunderstood it's purpose. His complaints were that he gets a lot of tear-out and that the side is too narrow for shooting board use. Both of these points serve to emphasize that this is a specialist plane for easy planing on benign grain and inevitably a fair amount of the the timber we use is not that. So, you would be much better off with a standard angle No 7 unless you intend to have two!

Personally, I would choose the standard angle Veritas over the Clifton because it has some useful innovations rather than being simply a recycled Stanley Bedrock. And before anyone says anything, no there is nothing wrong with a Bedrock but I am in favour of benefitting from and encouraging the clever innovators over the copiers of old designs.

Jim
 
yetloh":ptv2m99m said:
bought the Veritas low angle No 7 only last week and he is rather disappointed with it, although I think he has misunderstood it's purpose. His complaints were that he gets a lot of tear-out and that the side is too narrow for shooting board use.

Jim
I'm not surprised. The Veritas No7 try was never intended for use on a 'shute as there's only a thin slither of machined metal for it to rest on. The mouth is also fully adjustable and can be closed right up to almost zero, so again I'm quite surprised about the tear out issue...maybe your pal needs a bit of edjumacating :lol: - Rob
 
My thoughts too Rob. Sounds like he has a low bevel honed on the blade and the mouth isn't tight.

Cheers

Karl
 
The lack of a shooting option with the Vertias bevel-up jointer is a bit of a pain if you want to make like wotshisname and use a #7 for everything. Price made the decision I think; either you can have it with a square side - or you can have it affordable. But tear out really shouldn't be a problem. Step forward the option of higher angles on irons for BU planes. Sounds like the guy really needed to at least glance at the instructions.

What am I saying? When does a bloke ever do that? #-o :lol:

From my own experience the only real difference you need to worry about is the one between the regular Bailey/Bedrock style and the low angle. The latter does feel different, and although I love them muchly in the jack size and below, I must admit I've never really got comfortable with the jointer. Prefer the higher profile of the regular variety - seems to help with keeping things plumb when jointing. But it's a personal thing; try before you buy if at all possible.

Cheers, Alf
 
If you're going to shoot with it, I'd go Cliffie. More 'eft than an LN, StaySet cap iron, cheaper than an LN, British made, bounceable annealed cast iron and most importantly, Racing Green paint.
The only downside is that I think the modern handle is better suited to a higher bench, though if you also use power tools, maybe this is better.
 
I quite agree about him needing education. As for a tight mouth being the solution to tear out, I don't believe it and much more importantly, neither does Karl Holtey. I have always thought this idea that the front of the mouth holds the fibres down so that the cutter can nip them off before they have a chance to lift is nonsense and the master agrees. In my opinion what matters is sharpness and blade angle, as Alf suggests.

It is certainly true that the Clifton has a price advantage, but money permitting, I would still go for the Veritas. The only reason I can see for going for the LN is that it may be made to closer tolerances than the Clifton. I am sure it is me, but I have never been able to get on with the Clifton two piece cap iron.

Jim
 
It's me too. I always, but always drop the damn toe piece. I know, I know; you'd think after the first couple of dozen times I might have learnt, but nope, apparently not. :oops:

Cheers, Alf
 
I'm with yetloh and Alf. I used to have a two piece cap iron on a Calvert Stevens Record. Some mysterious force in my feet would repeatedly attract the toe piece of the cap iron into violent contact with each other.
 
The CS88 is weird. It almost requires a 2 part cap iron, because with a close mouth there's barely room to get the (close-fitting) cap screw back into its socket (it absolutely has to be presented square.)
 
yetloh":1po2esd4 said:
As for a tight mouth being the solution to tear out, I don't believe it and much more importantly, neither does Karl Holtey. I have always thought this idea that the front of the mouth holds the fibres down so that the cutter can nip them off before they have a chance to lift is nonsense and the master agrees. In my opinion what matters is sharpness and blade angle, as Alf suggests.


Jim
I think there's enough meat there for a seperate thread :wink: - Rob
 
Anyone who doesn't like a two piece cap iron is welcome to send it to me for disposal.

By return post I'll replace it with a "bit of bent metal" Stanley or Record Cap iron.
 
CheekyBoy, buy the Clifton. Its heavier than the rest, far better looking
and the blades are so much nicer than the d2 blades in the others.
Oh and its made in Sheffield \:D/
 
Alan Jones":1g9crxi7 said:
CheekyBoy, buy the Clifton. Its heavier than the rest, far better looking
and the blades are so much nicer than the d2 blades in the others.

?? What plane comes with a D2 blade?

BugBear
 
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