lining for drawer bases to prevent tool rust.

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Cheshirechappie":25cxo76c said:
Jacob":25cxo76c said:
Cheshirechappie":25cxo76c said:
Linseed oil oxidises to give a sticky, then a hard coating though, doesn't it?
Yes that's why it's good for old tools

That's fine on non-working surfaces, but may be a bit of a problem on something like a plane sole. Wiping fresh oil off is not that much of a problem, but an oxidised crust of set linseed on a working surface is just that bit more aggravation.

OK for very long-term storage though, I suppose.
Not a problem at all. If it's on thick it just gets rubbed off after a few strokes, but will stay in any pits or scratches. It's good on rusty old saws - they stay black and rusty looking but it polishes up with use and becomes a permanent non slip layer. In fact looks and acts like teflon.
 
Oh. That's all right then. As you know everything about everything, Jacob, I'll bow to your superior knowledge, wisdom and intellectual achievement.
 
Cheshirechappie":1umm62cz said:
Oh. That's all right then. As you know everything about everything, Jacob, I'll bow to your superior knowledge, wisdom and intellectual achievement.
Try it for yourself. I don't know everything but I do know a tiny bit about linseed oil and old tools.
 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000 ... ge_o06_s00
I use one of these in my van in the winter because I leave about 4.30AM and I cant be doing with faffing about trying to demist or de-ice the inside of the van at that time (damp tools etc). It does work pretty well (for me), but you do need to keep drying it out. Just looking on amazon and it's been discontinued and replaced with this version which might actually be a better option for drawers and tool cases as you can cut them up. http://www.amazon.co.uk/cars/dp/B00K690 ... SR70%2C37_

Just found this one as well. http://www.amazon.co.uk/LARGE-DEHUMIDIF ... B00AZZB5UY This one has better reviews and looks a better product. Has a colour coding strip to see how damp it's getting and the major bonus, you can chuck it in a microwave to dry it out.

Wouldn't suggest it's a replacement for other solutions that protect tools but might help in tandem. Think it works better in small spaces. I'll let you know...I just succumbed and bought one. #-o It's startin to get chilly in the mornings!
 
Paste wax on stuff that will be used infrequently. Thin coat of shellac (that can be removed later with alcohol) on anything that goes into disuse indefinitely. Discarding or selling tools that need shellac is another good option.

Light mineral oil instead of camelia oil. It costs the same per gallon as camelia oil does per 8 ounces and the result is the same (it's awfully handy to have to mix with beeswax, too - the light mineral oil that is).

Mineral oil can be had for $15 a gallon here in the US at any farm store (apparently people feed it to horses) or commercial kitchen supply. A gallon lasts a *long* time, and might find use on cutting boards, etc in the kitchen (supposing what's bought is food safe - and it should be, because it's the same price whether or not it is).
 
Jacob":3gr08iqk said:
Sounds like silica gel. Works well by all accounts.

Yep it's silica as you posted before in the thread Jacob, that's what made me remember these bags. Nice little business model I guess if you buy in bulk and fill smaller bags and sell them on amazon. I'm guessing the mark up is significant... I think they might work well if you dried them fairly regularly and used then in an enclosed space like drawers or tool boxes/chests (a drawback in itself - no pun intended). Funny enough, out of interest I had a look at a bulk silica supplier out of (mild :/ ) curiosity and they have a formula for approximating how much you'd need based on space, moisture control needed etc. Thats's a moot point and just proves I had 10 minutes to waste.
As I said before, they are fallible in my experience but could be a fairly cheap option to reduce moisture in the correct environment generally. I wouldn't substitute them for more proven methods that other people are proposing such as Mathew's solution or oils etc. They might help. Personally I keep my rust prone tools in the house not the shed but obviously that's not often an option for many. Just an idea. I'll see how these new 'improved' ones get on in the van and keep you posted.
Regards
 
Hemsby":2041nbwh said:

It works, but it has a limited lifetime. A friend of mine wrapped a lie nielsen 5 1/2 in that stuff for a long period of time and pulled it out to find that there was rust on it in spots. I'd want something that cut off outside air for sure (be it a rust proof bag, etc).
 
matthewwh":2mdruejg said:
It strikes me that anything that wasn't already here when you were born seems that way Jacob.
Not at all, not all of it by any means - only 90% of the stuff on offer nowadays is completely worthless!

I think the attraction of camellia oil is by association - flowers, japan, samurai warrior, geisha girl, la dame aux camellias etc etc.
In reality it's only as sexy as WD40 which is just as good for rust prevention at a fraction of the price
 
I've been using jojoba oil for years. I spritz a little on a rag stuffed in a tin. Never had a spot of rust. Some of my tools don't get used for months, and they look just as they did when they went back in the cabinet. Cheap and effective. A little bottle lasts me about two years- $15. And the humidity and temperature swings here in Montreal are enormous; my workshop is not humidity-controlled.

Camellia oil has gone up in price a lot recently, which is why Lie Nielsen now stock jojoba instead, but I've used jojoba from day one.
 
The iron mongers sell stuff like jojoba oil because they probably can't get a regular supply of camelia oil from first world countries. At one point, LN was selling camelia oil that said "china" on the package, and it probably got their customers in a ruffle.

I'm all for wanting first world made things (i have no wood river planes, etc), but could care less where flower oil comes from.

One would really need to ask the question, why are they peddling all of this rubbish to begin with? Why don't they just offer mineral oil in a spray bottle for a fraction of the price when the overall effect is the same (it protects for about the same amount of time)?

Maybe some distributor turned them on to oil that comes in spray bottles for the retail price of $160 a gallon effectively (of course, that might include 16 $1 squirt bottles).

If they really wanted to do something unique, they could import lumps of camphor from India.
 
Looks like I was a little low - it's $12 a bottle and not $10.
 
D_W":3fz0tt63 said:
The iron mongers sell stuff like jojoba oil because they probably can't get a regular supply of camelia oil from first world countries. At one point, LN was selling camelia oil that said "china" on the package, and it probably got their customers in a ruffle.

I'm all for wanting first world made things (i have no wood river planes, etc), but could care less where flower oil comes from.

One would really need to ask the question, why are they peddling all of this rubbish to begin with? Why don't they just offer mineral oil in a spray bottle for a fraction of the price when the overall effect is the same (it protects for about the same amount of time)?

Maybe some distributor turned them on to oil that comes in spray bottles for the retail price of $160 a gallon effectively (of course, that might include 16 $1 squirt bottles).

If they really wanted to do something unique, they could import lumps of camphor from India.
This stuff here http://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/HoneRite-No-1-250ml costs £288 per gallon (according to my calculator). Rip off or what? So that's about 20 tins at say £1 each = £268 just for the magic fluid. :lol:
Same amount of WD40 about £30
Same amount of diesel about £6.
Same amount of good single malt whiskey or good gin £100 upwards.
 
D_W":2uhhv7cp said:
Looks like I was a little low - it's $12 a bottle and not $10.

It's utterly pointless to calculate the per gallon cost when a tiny bottle costing $12 lasts many years.

Really, why does it bother you so much how I choose to keep my tools rust-free when it works well for me?

You're opining on what retailers should sell, what consumers should buy and why they're all wrong. Ever considered that there is more than one way to do things, and it might not always be your way?
 
mouppe":1wg9h5qf said:
D_W":1wg9h5qf said:
Looks like I was a little low - it's $12 a bottle and not $10.

It's utterly pointless to calculate the per gallon cost when a tiny bottle costing $12 lasts many years.

Really, why does it bother you so much how I choose to keep my tools rust-free when it works well for me?

You're opining on what retailers should sell, what consumers should buy and why they're all wrong. Ever considered that there is more than one way to do things, and it might not always be your way?

I know what way they're doing things. They sell something different than what you can get locally so that it seems as if it's exclusive or some sort of improvement over something you can get locally.

But, it's not.

That's the rub.

It doesn't matter too much to me what you buy. We're all marks when we're new. I have part of a bottle of it, too, but I went through three.

I've gone through a half a gallon of light mineral oil since because it has more uses than just keeping rust off tools (use is the best way to keep rust off of tools, anyway, and the next best after that is a cut paste or beeswax wax that's easy to apply - it lasts far longer than a light oil).

Sort of like the hone rite stuff jacob posted a link to. There's literally, on that page, glass that is *branded* as signature glass or something for "scary sharp". It just baffles me sometimes.

Everyone's a mark to some retailers. It would be free for anyone to say "get any flat glass and affix paper to it", but many can't resist. It would be just as easy for lie nielsen and japan woodworker to suggest any mineral oil or any light machine oil for tool care. They don't because there are plenty of marks.
 
It's so good of you to get off your high horse and explain everything to us mortals. Also nice to know I've been doing everything wrong for the last couple of decades.
 
£6 p&p on top if you just buy one - that's £21.79 for a very tiny tin of magic snake oil

It's difficult to make a living from woodworkers because lets face it they don't need much. So needs have to be created.
Not much scope for innovation either so LN etc desperately drag stuff from the back catalogue. This is difficult too - this stuff is in the back catalogue because nobody needed it much the first time round.
It's a hard life!
 
Jacob":2ao74a15 said:
£6 p&p on top if you just buy one - that's £21.79 for a very tiny tin of magic snake oil

It's difficult to make a living from woodworkers because lets face it they don't need much. So needs have to be created.
Not much scope for innovation either so LN etc desperately drag stuff from the back catalogue. This is difficult too - this stuff is in the back catalogue because nobody needed it much the first time round.
It's a hard life!

Bit like leisure cycling, really...
 
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