45 degree ripping cut

[AnLasair]

Hi, wanting a little advise on a project.

Basically we are building a table currently, and for the legs we wanted to have 2 strips sort of mitered together - this is tricky to describe without pictures but hopefully you understand, if not I'll add photos in a reply from laptop later as not sure how to on my phone.
We tried setting it up to rip the wood on the bandsaw, but that didn't work, and then on the tablesaw, but that also failed to give a good joint. I have toyed with the idea of making some form of shooting board but not sure how to do this as the mitred shooting boards I've seen have always been for beading and such so end grain specific.

Just wondering if anyone has any idea of how best to achieve this as I'm out of ideas...

 

[AnLasair]

Oh, ok I was being thick photos can be done by phone. Below is what we are trying to achieve but with a less gappy joint than what we rrently have. As a back up I'm thinking of just rebating a piece of swuare section, but if we can figure out how to do it this way that would be better - as if nothing else its frustrating me now

 

[marcros]

That is a difficult joint to achieve because of the length that it needs to be consistent over. You should be able to cut it on a table sat if it is accurate. If you do not have a saw that is set up to do it, I would think of redesigning the joint if possible.

You could make a long grain shooting board, and modify the plans to accommodate the angle. But like I said, I would look at alternative joints if possible.

 

[Mark A]

Sled for a thicknesser?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 

[Jacob]

mitred rebate ? http://www.table-saw-guide.com/rabbet-joint.html

 

[lincs1963]

Cut it from solid?

 

[jimmy rivers]

Do you have access to a track/rail circular saw? This is how we do long 45 deg rip joints like this, they are then assembled with biscuits or dominos.

Cheers Jim

 

[Steve Maskery]

If you have tablesaw or a good router table, that should not be too difficult to achieve.

Ideally, on a TS, the blade should tilt away from the fence so that the loose offcut does not get trapped and kicked back.

Set up good featherboards, both above and to the side of your workpieces.

Feed in the work carefully, and clean up the cut with a plane if you have to. But if everything is good that should not be necessary.

The bigger problem here is clamping. I'd get a tape dispenser and some parcel tape. It's got just the right amount of stretchiness for jobs like this. Tape them flat across the joint and fold up, but check they are at 90, it's easy to over-fold, as it were, and you will end up with an angled joint.

Not much to lose by doing a trial, eh?
S


S

 

[deema]

IMO a table saw and a band saw are for rough cutting rather than finish cutting, and it will be very difficult to achieve the joint with them. There are three solution I believe

1. Plane it by hand having marked out each piece. A hand plane with a fence would achieve the joint without too much difficulty.

2. Cut a rebate and then use a chamfer cutter for the router if you have a router table.

3. The easiest solution would be to use a Spindle Moulder with a chamfer rebate cutter. See Whetehill tooling. This will cut the joint accurately once the stuff is 4 square.

 

[Mar_mite]

What about one of these? It would help alignment
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-mi ... ter-cutter

 

[condeesteso]

If you start with rectangular prepared stock, all squared up, then rip at 45 down the centre (so mid depth of cut is bang on centre and allow for blade kerf in setting this. Nick a spare bit off the end of your stock to test this for angle and centring cut first, if in any doubt. THEN, flip one and any error off 45 will cancel - but that error ought to be v small anyway.
This way I'd use either the bsaw or tsaw. And finish with a fine set handplane, probably a 5 set to take very fine cut. With the plane you're just looking to knock off the highs left by the saw so it just rests on the flat and is fed forwards.
What could possibly go wrong :lol:

edit - oops, I know what. The error is doubled on this one! So set it bang on with test piece first. Still the way I'd do it though.

 

[Jacob]

mitred rebate ? http://www.table-saw-guide.com/rabbet-joint.html

I thought I'd bump this up as I still think it's the easiest way to do it.

 

[AnLasair]

ok, lots of genius suggestions here. Will try a few out on some test pieces and go from there


or ask very very nicely at work and see if they'll put them through the spindle molder or dim saw for me... but as I've not been there long yet not sure if they will go for that


clamping them up for gluing is another issue, but one problem at a time lol. At the moment thinking best way may be to glue them get them into position and fire some headless pins in as that gets round the whole having to clamp them up for a long period thing. But that will be an issue that will have more thought once worked out how to make the cuts in the first place

 

[Jacob]

The rebated mitre is self locating and would cramp up in the ordinary way, which otherwise could be a bigger problem than making the actual cuts.

 

[andersonec]

Rip it at 45 deg then stick it in a vice and.....

If you have one of these.........

Andy

 

[RobinBHM]

The rebated mitre is self locating and would cramp up in the ordinary way, which otherwise could be a bigger problem than making the actual cuts.

Very true -mitred joints are tricky to cut but the real challenge is trying to cramp the joint together. I often use a lock mitre cutter on a spindle moulder, which works in a similar way to a rebated mitre and can be cramped conventionally although with car to keep the parts at 90 degrees.

 

[mailee]

the method I used for this type of joint was the table saw and then ran it over the planer with the fence set at 45 deg. I then jointed them together with biscuits. :wink:

 

[woodfarmer]

Think I would use square section the size of the finished article and just rip the small square corner out of it two little 90 degree cuts. Saves all that glueing etc.

but then I am lazy