Work Sharp The Wood Tool Sharpener WS3000 model

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Hi Brian,
this machine and its smaller brother , the WS2000, are reviewed in the current British Woodworking magazine. Rob Leach reviewed it and liked it.

He is described as a "Tormek and waterstone man" who "wasn't very happy to see it (the WS300) go".
The larger machine, the WS3000, is strongly recommended over the WS2000.

David
 
Thanks for mentioning this product Brian. It looks to be an excellent "first sharpening" tool purchase. I have a veritas MkII on the way also, but this should prove a decent more automated alternative.

I wasn't sure how you sharpen plane irons on it though. The video on rutlands shows sharpening chisels but do plane irons work the same way?

I'm literally hovering over the "buy" button... should I do it....? :)
 
There is an attachment to fit on the back of the unit (remove the cross bar rest) and provides a relative flat rest and your veritas will work fine.

I am to purchase one of these now and see if I can provide my own flat surface, for at £49 that is expensive.

Cheers.
 
I like the look of it, but just like the Tormek, you have to shell out nearly as much again to get al the accessories.
 
wizer":1piw3xj5 said:
I like the look of it, but just like the Tormek, you have to shell out nearly as much again to get al the accessories.
Click to expand...

Apart from the large iron accessory, I thought it came with all that is required? Of course, you can by additional honing discs and other replacement items, but I don't know that you need anything else?

The Tormek also looks nice, but a bit too pricey for my first excursion into decent sharpening...
 
you don't need all the extra Tormek bits.. but you'll probably want them, at some point.
 
Just some feedback. I went with the 3000 Worksharp.

Wow! What a pleasure! Now I have experienced having my chisels and plane irons REALLY sharp!

What a good buy - I was into the Scary Sharp method of which this is an extension and never got my tools to this level.

Nothing like prepared tools to work with!

I recommend this!
 
I know this may be unwarrented but I have the veritas version and it is great but...
The disks are very very expensive and the fine grit clogs up very quickly. I have been looking at solutions and the cheapest way I have come up with is to look at fibre optic sanding sheets and cut them to size. RS components sell a box of 20 or thirty sheets for 30quid which you could mount on which i will be testing when my last disc wears out.
May be of some help or it may not.
Owen
 
Brian,
Have you tried freehand sharpening turning or carving tools underneath the wheel yet?
If so, how did you get on.
Also how much mess does it make, does it collect in one place or get all over the place?

Regards - Martin.
 
Martin, I have do so.

the "dust" collects at the back right-hand side and is visible (just rub your hand anywhere around that area on the table surface) and you will find black dust.

The sharpening is brilliant - I have never had my chisels, etc, so sharp. I have been using 'scary sharp' method and this is an extension of that but in a more controlled manner - you cannot go wrong!

Brilliant piece of kit - I would recommend it.

I accept there will be those who will want it to do everything but those tool elements would be the exception. The max. size of blade is 2.5" width. You have less space underneath, of course, but you have room for gouges etc.

Cheers.
 
Hi all,
Still relevant to the original post and a little bump with a few questions.

Of you that have one - are you still finding it living up to expectations? Is it lasting well build wise?

I realise that that it has a 'vision' area to see the edge you are putting on carving tools etc but what would be the recommended way to remove the burr on the 'inner' side of such a tool (forgive my realy bad descriptions here!) There isnt anything on this to allow you to do that so I was wondering, from a complete noob point of view, how you would do this.

I notice on the Tormek units there is a leather wheel that can be used to hone inside of a curve (does this make sence?! :? )

Thanks all.
Wayne.
 
Wayne,
I have not yet bought a Worksharp but have had a good look at one.
I agree that there is no way of removing the burr on the inside of a gouge using the WS.
However, one way of doing this would be to use a round edge slip stone, something like this from Rutlands;
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/MF244

I too would be interested to hear from anyone who has bought a WS and how they are getting on with it.

Martin.
 
After reading reviews & forum feedbacks (both in the UK & US) and watching videos I'm now convinced this is what I need.
Unfortunately they are not available here yet (see my location ?) and the only UK supplier, unless someone knows different, is Rutlands who refuse to export power tools or machinery.
I can get one from Rockler in the US for $200 / £140 which is half Rutland's price. Since I would have to pay shipping regardless of where I buy then this sounds like a bargain compared with Rutlands.
BUT, the US model is of course 110V not 230.
I'll need an inverter to run it on 230V
Question is, should I do this ?
Can anyone help me decide ?
Any views or comments would be much appreciated. :)
 
I bought the 3000 a couple of weeks ago, when it was £187 from Rutlands. I'd pay more for it. Its very, very, good. Comes with everything to start off, 15 abrasives, 2 glass wheels etc. Fed it three chisels I'd lent out which had been used as metal detectors. Within 15mins all 3 were mirror finish cutting edges and I was able to shave the hairs on my arms with them.
I hand sharpened a 130 year old Matheson blade off an infill plane I'm restoring. (It was found in a shed which hadn't been opened for over 11 years - you can imagine the state). Took 5 minutes for the edge to mirrored and cutting hair.
Yes, all the machine is is abrsive stuck onto tempered glass. You can do the same manually. I've achieved similar results in the past with the oilstones I've always preferred - but never as quickly or as simply.
I haven't used the "see through" wheel yet.
 
Krystell

I don't see any problems running it on an inverter, except the cost of the inverter.

If you're making that much of a saving over buying it from the UK then I think it's a no brainer
 

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