Workshop nameboard

[Ginger]

I have carved a nameplate for my workshop. 8)

(I would show you a photo by I haven't yet solved the 'image' question for this site.)

The nameboard contains two areas each requiring a different finish.
There is the lettering for the name itself. And then there is a coat of arms, namely: a shield and a mural crown.

(The jargon of heraldry is very pedantic. I think that I am supposed to say that I have emblazoned an achievement of arms . . . but lets not get bogged down in all that.)

The point is that the arms demand colour: red white blue and yellow. The beautiful piece of beech that carries the arms demands to show off its grain. How do I apply an appropriate finish?

The nameplate will be mounted by the door on a veranda 1.5 metres deep. This means that it will not get wet, but will be exposed to frost.

 

[Philly]

Hi Ginger
Welcome to the forum!
Why not apply a finish to the whole piece (like varnish or lacquer) and then apply the coat of arms after it dries. You could apply a second layer of topcoat after the coat of arms dries to seal the whole lot in.
Does this make sense?
Cheers
Philly

 

[Gill]

I made a sign out of oak with routed lettering for our house a couple of years ago. I used a Danish oil all over the sign to finish it and then painted black enamel paint into the routed letters, over the oil. The paint has held up well but the Danish oil needs to be refreshed each year in order to revive the oak. That's not a problem because I tend to ring the changes with the seasons - when Halloween comes along, I'll stick up my alternative 'spooky' sign and take the oak sign down to re-oil it.

Gill

 

[Ginger]

Thanks Philly,

I am experimenting with tung oil with Humbrol lacquer for the colours.

Tried colour covered by oil. OK.
Also oil covered by colour. The colour is not quite dry yet.

Humbrol paint only has one advantage over anything else - I get the complete palette for less than a fiver.

I have thought of using canal boat paint. It comes specially formulated for the purpose and just the right colours, but I would find myself keeping a row of paint tins.

Still if it produces the results . . .

 

[Ginger]

Changing your sign with the seasons sound fun.

Glad the lacquer holds up well.

 

[Ginger]

Humbrol over tung oil does not go. It stays smudgy.

Who's lacquer did you use Gill?

Any other coments anybody?

 

[Gill]

Hi Ginger

I used Liberon Danish oil. If I recall correctly, it took several applications of enamel paint to get the gloss finish I wanted. Perhaps I should have coated the lettering with a primer or sealer before I tried to paint it. I've used Wickes acrylic sealer on other signs I've made and they don't seem to have taken as much paint.

This is my normal sign:

Come Halloween, I'll take it down and re-apply some oil, using this plywood alternative as a temporary replacement:

Gill

 

[Ginger]

Thanks Gill

I like the acrylic idea.

Smart signs.