Workshop Essentials Rip Fence

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Prawn_Cracker

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Hi All

There are always a few posts about table saw rip fences not always being up to much. So I thought it be useful to make a quick post to show what a difference a Workshop Essentials DVD, some box section steel and a toggle clamp can do!

ha9evyra


The only modification I made was to use low friction tape on the saddle rather than nylon bolts.

5e2y7yna


The fence clamps rock solid and straight every time. Really highly recommended solution. The next task is to build the short rip fence and I'll be ready to rip!

Cheers

Andy
Sent from my RM-846_eu_euro1_273 using Tapatalk
 
Prawn_Cracker":1vm9en23 said:
The fence clamps rock solid and straight every time. Really highly recommended solution.

I think you mean "It locks rock and straight First Time Every Time", don't you?

I'm glad you are pleased with the end result, it looks like you have done a fine job. It's neat with the weld (mine, as you know, is bolted together).

It also looks a very good toggle clamp. Where did you get it please?

S
 
it is worth noting how good an upgrade like that can make even a budget saw. i had a reasonable fence on my kity, but installed a similar type of aftermarket one to the picture, albeit bought rather than made and it has transformed it. You could do a lot more with a cheap saw (as long as you have something to fix the support to), some time and a bit of money on materials, than you could by spending more in the first place.
 
Yeah that's right! First time every time. It really does!

It's transformed my budget Axi saw and with an Atkinson Walker blade on it, it'll be really nice. Toggle clamp was from Axminster tools. Christmas pressie along with your DVD! Its the self adjusting one.

I guess I'm also lucky in that my friend could weld and shot blast in exchange for cider! He did a great job. I etch primed it before finishing coat.
 
From your photo of it on the saw it doesn't look parallel to the red insert plate - do you have a micro adjust or is this just a photographic illusion?

Steve
 
The original is adjustable in all three axes. I guess PC has welded it so square that it doesn't need adjustment. The nylon bolts, which PC has replaced with slick-tape, not only provide the nice glide but allow it to be tuned for true in X, Y and Z.

S
 
Yes, that's right Steve, saddle is welded perpendicular to the fence and so the fence is always parallel to the blade.



Steve. B I see what you mean about the pic being wonky, not sure. But as per the strap line I can confirm it locks tight and straight first time everytime! Possibly my less than smart phone camera working as best it can.


What is impressive about Steve's design is how solid it is clamped on. Wild horses wouldn't move it.



Steve - can't wait to see your workshop finished in the hope we'll get more of your DVDs (self adjusting or otherwise).



Andy
 
Or clamp / bolt on a removable short fence to the long fence then you can still have the stability of the long fence, across the full bed and the short bit for security.
 
The issue of long/short for sheet cutting is more important on a bigger saw than this. If I were to cut a sheet of MDF in half with a short fence I might as well be doing it freehand, so I'd use a long fence for that.
 
Giff":3iyzg281 said:
Or clamp / bolt on a removable short fence to the long fence then you can still have the stability of the long fence, across the full bed and the short bit for security.
That was my thought. You've then still got the anchor point on the far side of the table then, as you say.
 
Phil
Fences that have any kind of anchor point at the far end are generally very poor fences. The only reason for it is to fix the fence because the fixing at the front is so poor. With a 3-point front fixing, like mine (although not in this particular interpretation of mine) you don't need an anchor point at the back, it is rock solid without. The result is that the fence squares up automatically RFTET.
 

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