wolverine /record setup

[nev]

Splashed out and bought the wolverine kit :shock: and it arrived today. setting up the wolverine, the included instructions state that the centre of wheel to be between 6 1/4 and 6 1/2 inches from the deck.
I have a record power rpbg6 grinder and this requires a 2 1/4 inch block beneath it for the centre to be at the suggested height, but this puts the effective 'cutting edge'( for the suggested angles of grind) of the wheel at not far above 3 o'clock, which looks like an accident (dig in) waiting to happen, and does not inspire confidence.
I think by using a smaller block under the grinder, say an inch, will move the cutting edge up a bit to more like 1.30 / 2 oclock?

has anyone got a similar setup (6 inch RP grinder) and if so, how bigs yer block? :?:

ta

 

[Jonzjob]

I have a 6" Deck and Blacker, very old, with a Wolverine rig nailed to the base. There's no way that the base is 6" down from the centre of the wheel and I didn't see that in the mounting instructions either. Too late, and bruddy wet, to go across to my workshop at the mo, but mine has worked fine for a year or more now!

 

[Silverbirch]

Hi Nev
I`ve got exactly the setup you describe and I did have to raise the grinder up a couple of inches or so. I`ll measure and take a pic in the morning. I haven`t had any problems with the setup and have never felt in any danger of a dig-in. If I remember correctly, Oneway recommend a 8" rather than a 6" grinder with the Wolverine, but I suspect much depends on the design of the particular machine.

Ian

 

[TEP]

IMO the main thing needed for turning tool fingernail profile sharpening is as few variables as possible.

I made my own, modified and in steel using this plan, have helped set up a Wolverine to the same measurements and the guy is still happily using it. His is set up on a 6" grinder. I also advised him to lock up the vari-grind jig and not change it at any time, all he does is adjust the bottom arm to change between a bowl gouge grind and a spindle gouge grind for the angles, makes life a lot easier.

 

[cambournepete]

Isn't the point of raising the the grinder that high to give you a 45 or so degree bevel?
If you don't raise it as much then you'll have a more shallow bevel.

 

[Silverbirch]

Here`s a pic of my setup.

I had to do a bit of jiggling, using the various thicknesses of scrap I had available, to arrive at the positioning of the components, hence the packing pieces under both the grinder and the sliding arm holders. The height of the grinder packing pieces is 85mm and the arm holder pieces is 25mm, so effectively a height from table to base of grinder of 60mm.
That suits my method of working, although I seldom use the extending arm. I prefer to use the platform as it is much quicker and easier, although the grinds don`t generally look as pretty.

Ian

 

[Deejay]

Morning Pete

The bevel angle changes as you slide the arm in and out.

I use a Woodcut jig with a six inch Record grinder mounted on a bit of 2" timber.

I've never had a dig in.

Cheers

Dave

 

[nev]

cheers guys,
knowing i am in the right ballpark will inspire a little more confidence. I was a little apprehensive cos i couldnt rotate the wheel towards the tool by hand with just the weight of the tool resting on it, and i had visions of exploding stones!

off to the shed in a minute to have a play.

 

[Jonzjob]

The centre of my wheels is 5 1/4" off the deck and not problems here..

I screwed a 'depth block' under the front left hand side so that when I'm redoing spindle or bowl gouges that have a fingernail it's dead easy to set the correct protrusion from the jig.. Works a treat..

 

[nev]

=D> I cannot believe the difference in sharpness of me gouges from yesterday :shock: I mean I am using the same wheel on the same grinder but my edges have never been as sharp! all down to holding the tool steadily in the correct position I guess.
I must admit to having a slight mishap when i attempted to to reproduce the findley grind on my bowl gouge.
Yep you guessed it - it dug in jammed itself in the grinder, the wheel on the other end of the grinder undid itself and it completely pippered my prize gouge and put a lovely trough in my wheel :evil: :evil: :evilApologies to those within a half mile radius of my shed for the blue air)

Spent the next hour disassembling the grinder, checking the wheel (still 'dings'), re-assembling and dressing about 2 years off the life of my wheel.
So my lesson learnt for the day - dont attempt a 65 deg bevel in a wolverine arm and a fast moving grinder, use the platform instead! #-o #-o
But overall a successful day, and the amount i save in sandpaper, i reckon the wolverine will pay for itself in about 20 years!
Thanks for the pics and info guys, much appreciated.

 

[CHJ]

This is why I prefer a jig system that either balances the tool about a pivot point or provides a negative contact pressure on the wheel, less likely to take heavy metal removing cuts and very little risk of a dig in by tool trying to go over centre and jambing if it's bevel is located near the centre line of the wheel.