Which type of plastic do I need to support a router on?

[Tetsuaiga]

I want to make a sled/large base for my router to sit on.

What kind of plastic should I be looking for and also what thickness? I want something that will be as rigid as possible so it won't sag too much.

Thanks

 

[Glynne]

When you say sit on, are you talking about a base for normal routing or do you mean an insert plate for a router table?

 

[Tetsuaiga]

For it to sit on top of.

Also I didn't say I want it to be transparent. Is it realistic to be able to try putting a thread on the inside of the plastic with a metal tap? Not sure if plastic will be tough enough to withstand that, my router is the old small dewalt one, can't remember the model name exactly but its for 1/4 inch bits so pretty light.


Thanks

 

[Noel]

For it to sit on top of.

Also I didn't say I want it to be transparent. Is it realistic to be able to try putting a thread on the inside of the plastic with a metal tap? Not sure if plastic will be tough enough to withstand that, my router is the old small dewalt one, can't remember the model name exactly but its for 1/4 inch bits so pretty light.


Thanks

You mean a bigger base? Not sure why you would want to thread it, just screw it on to the metal base of the router using the existing threaded holes. If no threads C/S machine screws and nuts. Polycarbonate or acrylic would suit, 4mm upwards.

 

[Lons]

How big is big?
Acrylic is stiffer than polycarbonate and doesn't scratch quite so easily but has less impact strength. Polycarb is formulated to flex which is one of the properties which gives it strength.

You can easily form a thread on either given sufficient thickness but I can't for the life of me think why you would want to.

Bob

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Oh yes actually you're right I don't need the thread on the plastic. Not sure what I was thinking then.

I think acrylic is what I need then. Thanks for the help.

I haven't worked out the size just yet, at a guess I think it probably will need to be 45cm long by 20cm. For quite a small job.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Could anyone also tell me if I have to make sure I get cell cast acrylic or is any going to be okay?

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I think you need to be a bit more specific in how you intend to use the acrylic - a piece 450 x 200 x 4 mm will bend a lot if not supported. If I was looking for rigidity I'd be considering using 10mm material for that size of base.

Regards Mick

 

[Tetsuaiga]

I'll be routing out a piece that's 20cm wide, leaving around 1cm around the outer edges.

 

[foxhunter]

I assume that the finished article is something like a tray. Take care that the thicker the base you need leaves enough of the cutter to enable you to achieve the depth you want.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Thanks. I've bought some 6mm acrylic to try.

Perhaps it's on the thicker side but i'll only be routing down about 2cm so it won't be a problem.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Why not get yourself the Trend "square" sub-base? I use one most of the time on my router. I find it significantly aids stability. It also takes guide bushes.



Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Interesting, i've not seen that one before.

I might take a look at the price, i've already ordered the plastic unfortunately but I do quite like the idea of being able to see through, though I know its not necessary.

 

[Steve Maskery]

If you are using acrylic, can I suggest that you counterbore for flat-head screws rather than countersink? Contersinking can cause a lot of localised pressure and is difficult to adjust if it is not spot-on. It's easy for it to fracture from the hole outwards. Counterboring does not have that effect. The problem is that, with only 6mm thickness, you would need screws with very shallow heads.
S

 

[Tetsuaiga]

Thanks for the suggestion Steve.

I only read this today and what you say makes sense. I already used the countersking method but so far it's all worked out okay.

I had quite a hard time cutting the acrylic with my jigsaw as that's all i had. It was internal cut so can't use bandsaw. The acyrlic melted but if i went back over the cut it threw out the old material and looks ugly but luckily that doesn't matter.

 

[carlb40]

Thanks for the suggestion Steve.

I only read this today and what you say makes sense. I already used the countersking method but so far it's all worked out okay.

I had quite a hard time cutting the acrylic with my jigsaw as that's all i had. It was internal cut so can't use bandsaw. The acyrlic melted but if i went back over the cut it threw out the old material and looks ugly but luckily that doesn't matter.

Sounds like you were cutting it at the wrong speed. Slower is better for plastics. Anyway you can sand the cut edge with various grits and even polish it if required.