Which Sanding Sealer ?

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Grahamshed

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Chestnut do a cellulose sealer and an Acrylic Sealer. The Axi description and uses are pretty much the same for both. When would I use which and do I need both ?
 
I'd use the more often (cos I bought it first). It's water based, so a little more friendly to use IMHO. That said, it depends on whether you're treating or finishing the piece further. Topcoat of acrylic lacquer will do well over acrylic sealer. Wax, melamine, other stuff like that probably would need the cellulose sealers.

(That's the holding answer. Something better will be along shortly!)
 
Cellulose is my main user.
Reason, rapid drying, very little grain raising, will burnish like a lacquer as it dries to gloss finish with a bit of practise, hard enough to cut back with buffing compound immediately it's dried. Allows me to seal, triple wheel buff and finish within a couple of minutes.
Acrylic, being water based raises grain a little more, takes a while longer to harden completely. (KimG uses it a lot combined with acrylic lacquer, Take particular note of Page 5 in this pamphlet) Quite tough when fully cured.
 
Hi Graham I use cellulose pretty much for the same reason as Chas, I buy mine 5lt at a time from eBay and thin it down when required with cellulose thinners. Have found it to be just as good as the branded makes and it lasts for ages and of course is less than half the cost.

Vic
 
I use cellulose sealer if using a sanding sealer. It is a great help for lots of finishes, as they soak in less. I also use it if I have cracks to repair, as it stops the superglue staining the timber.
I like shellac based finishes though if the timber is nice and clean. Wipe on a couple of coats then spin the lathe up applying the paper towel still damp & gardually applying pressure until it shines. Care has to be taken however not to rub through the shellac.
I like to apply melamine lacquer to anything likely to be handled a lot like jewelery stands and some boxes. I finish that off sometimes with autoglym polish for a good gloss.
 
Thanks everyone looks like it is cellulose then, maybe with a spray can of acrylic in stock just in case I need it :)
 
I've been using Zinsser for while now:

http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-cat ... ing-sealer

From the blurb:

Compatible with ALL clear wood finishes
Great for sealing ALL interior wood, including floors
Dries lightning fast - can be sanded & recoated in minutes
Does not darken or yellow with age
Easy clean up with alcohol or ammonia and water
Gives extra beauty & warmth to water-base polyurethanes
 
Green":20lw10b3 said:
I've been using Zinsser for while now:
As it's basically a de-waxed Shellac sealer how robust is it when dried, will it burnish without risk of melting shellac.
 
I've never tried burnishing it. If I get a chance to over the weekend I'll report back.
 
I use standard shellac sanding sealer for quite a few items, especially those I intend to finish with shellac, and I use a dewaxed blond shellac for the finish, when it comes to burnishing I have noted a couple of interesting points. It's rare for me to get a super finish off the pad when applying the shellac and there are always small marks and lines, you can buff these off but I find sanding the thing smooth by hand with 400 grit a better prospect.

Then the buffing is done with a light touch, moving the piece all the time and only using the tripoli wheel. Tripoli will cut the shellac back to a high gloss and as long as you don't use too much pressure or hang around in one spot for too long, it will not melt or drag the shellac.

Don't use the diamond white wheel though! as this will very quickly warm and drag the shellac and to little gain in the gloss, I can't see any difference between the two when used for polishing shellac. You can go lightly over it with the third polishing mop, but as you already will have a high gloss finish from the tripoli, it seems redundant.
 
I have used the Chestnut Cellulose Sanding sealer for more years than I care to remember.

I used to thin it with Cellulose thinners 50/50 but after watching a professional turner at Tudor Rose Woodturners, I spread it neat, thinly, using a cloth, with the lathe stopped and turned by hand then denib with Webrax with lathe spinning, and re-apply 2 or 3 coats, again with lathe stopped.

For polishing I use the Beall 8 inch polishing wheels and both I and my customers are very pleased with the results.

regards, Peter.
 
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