Wet Drip profile

[billybuntus]

Hi chaps,

I'm about to start making a fence panel to fit between two brick piers. The fence panel will be around 50 cm high and 3 metres long

I've just about sussed the overall design (in my head) and am now trying to make the panel last.

The only downfall will be the fact that its being mounted on top of an uneven (upto 2 inches) stone wall.

I am looking to create a channel along some of the higher copping stones so that the bottom rail (all one length) will sit so that there are no gaps under the panel.

The 3 metre bottom rail will then sit in this channel (some of the rail will not be in a channel as the coping stones are uneven). Mu only concern is the rail will be wet if the channel fills up with rain water (the coping stones are very dense).

I am looking to fit the rail in place (with resin studs into the stone to take the weight) then fit some form of beading/trim along each side of the rail to promote water run off away from the timber and channel in the coping stones.

I know its not ideal but its what I have to work with and I'm trying to make the panel last as many years as possible


So to sum it up, my question is, what type of beading is best to act as a drip run off?

thanks

 

[AndyT]

If I've understood you right, you will be carving a channel in the coping so that your piece of wood can have a straight edge, some of which will be hidden from view.

Given that it's easier to cut wood than stone, have you thought about scribing the bottom edge of the wooden panel so that it closely follows the line of the wall? You could also consider leave a 1/2" parallel gap so that the bottom of the wood does not sit in water and rot.

 

[billybuntus]

If I've understood you right, you will be carving a channel in the coping so that your piece of wood can have a straight edge, some of which will be hidden from view.

Given that it's easier to cut wood than stone, have you thought about scribing the bottom edge of the wooden panel so that it closely follows the line of the wall? You could also consider leave a 1/2" parallel gap so that the bottom of the wood does not sit in water and rot.

I understand what your saying but the amount of time it work take to shap 3 metres of timber is far more than grinding out a 1/4 gap in some stone

 

[Chems]

I think even with good drip sill its still going to fill with water, and its not going to last as long as it could if its sitting in water. I think what andy T suggests is probably best.

 

[Rob H]

If I was you I would put the rails in and then put the boards on the rails and let the boards follow the wall at the bottom. Then mark across the top take the panels back out and cut across the top to level the tops off. Doing it this way it will save a lot of work cutting the stone and save the bottom of the panels been sat in water.

Thats the way I would do it any way hope it helps!