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Chris_belgium

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Hello,

how would you guys construct a wall like this (green wall in the picture)? My concern is that because of the fact that the wall isn't connected to the ceiling, it'll wobble around with the slightest bump. I was thinking maybe a torsion box design using MR mdf? Or am I overly concerned and should I just make a softwood frame and then clad with mdf?

The wall is for a walk in shower, so it will also have some plumbing inside further weakening it, it will also be tiled.

Regards, Christof.

392515012.jpg
 
I would not use mdf,but you should use cement boarding on a softwood frame partition.
 
If you look how glass/aly. walls are fixed/braced for a walk in shower they have a rod to an adjacent wall and are quite strong so do something along these lines .
In the shower area to be tiled use 'aquapanel ' (B&Q etc) and high quality waterproof adhesive and grout, else were thick plaster board is ok wall construction studs and good screws. If you prefer ply/mdf use construction adhesive and screws.
 
Simples. :wink:
Stud wall with plaster board, add in some diagonal bracing with the usual noggins.

A stud wall is by definition a torsion box.

If you want belt and braces use OSB/Sterling board under the plasterboard. It won't be falling over any time soon.

Edit: I got hasty and forgot..properly tiled and grouted the plasterboard will not have any detrimental effect from being in a shower or bathroom.
 
Timber or metal studwork with MR Plasterboard or tilebacker board (Aquapanel or Wedi) and then carry your floor tanking system up the wall at least 1.0m all the way preferably particularly if using mosaics and/or a pumped shower.

I'm doing something similar at the moment but I have to hang a wall hung pan & bidet off the dwarf wall :eek:

Jason
 
Thanks guys, guess I was overly concerned! Wooden framework with some kind of boards it will be! Will certainly check with my building supplier for a kind of boards specifically meant for tilling.

The floor tanking system used a lot over here in Belgium is some kind of fiberglass cloth waterproofed with some kind of epoxy 'paint', and is usually carried all the way to the top of the shower.

Thanks, Christof.
 
If you really want it to stay stiff no pun intended :lol: you could make the wall as suggested but get some steel plates welded in a t shape the same as the plan view of your wall this can then be attached to the top of your wall and hidden under what ever finish you are using . It will be totally concealed but will stiffen the wall completely.
 
chippy1970":3gowryoy said:
If you really want it to stay stiff no pun intended :lol: you could make the wall as suggested but get some steel plates welded in a t shape the same as the plan view of your wall this can then be attached to the top of your wall and hidden under what ever finish you are using . It will be totally concealed but will stiffen the wall completely.

Very good idea, do feel a bit embarassed that I didn't think of that myself since I am a welder :)!! Cheap solution too to make the whole wall stiffer.

Thanks!
 
I rebuilt the wall in our bathroom a little while ago. I'd heard of the cement-based waterproof boards (eg Aquapanel) but was very pleased when I found this stuff just in time:

http://www.marmoxboard.com/en/

It's just as waterproof, very strong and rigid, but a great deal lighter in weight. If you are doing a diy job, maybe handling the stuff on your own, I think you'll find it a great deal easier to handle.
 
I have used a lot of marmox, not only on the wall, but also perfect /supurb for floor and underfloor heating,

it will add rigidity to your structure
 
Chris_belgium":3593j5b5 said:
chippy1970":3593j5b5 said:
If you really want it to stay stiff no pun intended :lol: you could make the wall as suggested but get some steel plates welded in a t shape the same as the plan view of your wall this can then be attached to the top of your wall and hidden under what ever finish you are using . It will be totally concealed but will stiffen the wall completely.

Very good idea, do feel a bit embarassed that I didn't think of that myself since I am a welder :)!! Cheap solution too to make the whole wall stiffer.

Thanks!

What can i say it must be in my blood as my dad was a Design engineer maybe i should have gone down that line instead of being a chippy. Im quiet good at problem solving if i do say so myself :)


What i thought was that your studwall built as described by others will be fine you just need to stop any twisting which my idea of the t-plate will do hopefully is the wall 3" or 4" thick obviously whatever it is will be the length of your weld i bet even 3" will be enough to stop the T twisting. Drill lots of holes thru the plate so you can fix your cladding material thru it and i would be tempted to gripfill it all together too.
 
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