wadkin table saw rise and fallproblem

[davem62]

sam
will take a few more pic's in more detail then if you need any more info or any measurements just pm me ,

have you seen any threads or info about dust extraction for these models,i think a i saw a thread where the motor is boxed in at the side ,but i'm worried about the motor getting too hot,wonder if bob would be able to advise or during my searches you have had some advice from mister fish do you know what he use's?,

best regards. dave

 

[9fingers]

Most modern saws seem to manage OK with the motor inside the cabinet. Mine has 3hp TEFC and does not seem to over heat. The dust extraction is always used and shifts a lot of air through the cabinet.
I improved the extraction by block most of the holes until I had the same total air intake area as the extraction hose. Too much air intake in the wrong places can mean that air is extracted but does not carry the sawdust with it.
My mods are written up here http://thewoodhaven.co.uk/phpBB3/viewto ... =19&t=1497

Bob

 

[misterfish]

The base part of the stand has an internal slope that funnels all the sawdust down to the base at the right hand side. It also has the original steel cover. I'm fortunate that my machine was originally in a school and had an easy life as well as (apparently) being original throughout apart from a crudely cut hole in the face of the cover which I have covered with a bit of taped on hardboard. I assume this was for some sort of (probably ineffective) dust extraction

What I have done is to make a plywood adaptor to fit against the base on the right hans side with a 100mm dust extraction port and a blast gate.

Here's some pictures. Let me know if you want any more

Misterfish

 

[SammyQ]

Dave, Bob and Mr Fish have already responded with the essence of what I would have written anyway, but may I please publicly acknowledge the altruism of said Mr F.? He practically dismantled his machine a couple of years age (when I first embarked on this escapade) to provide me with hugely detailed photographs and measurements. I see he is doing something similar for you above.

Bob too, gives of himself, not just here, but in busy PM's, which take time and effort.


The two of them epitomise the spirit of this forum. "Owe you one" - or six - gents.

Sam

PS Fine Wood Working had a very good critique by (was it?) Asa Christiansen recently, indicating air flow direction was key, and depicting several home-made add-ons to cabinets, rather like the photos above. I'll see if I can find the reference. S.

 

[davem62]

bob,misterfish and sam all your help and advice is much appreciated,and as you say sam, the members of this site are so generous in giving both time and knowledge to the other members either new or established.
thanks every one ,dave

 

[SammyQ]

Dave by the M62?

I promised to look up Asa Christiana's mods to his saw for dust extraction? You can find it in: FWW's "Tune up your tools" Oct 2011, pages 36-41. Basically, it's a cover like wot Mr F. did above, with three vertical slits, maybe 250mm long (a foot in old money) in it, immediately opposite the motor fan intake. I can't scan and post the image for fear of copyright breach putting Charley in a jam, but if you PM me, I can file share....

Sam

 

[Peter G Denmark]

Sammy.

Did you get a smooth action, or do you still have that jagged action when lowering the blade?

I'm still in the frustrating process of fixing my saw, but after 4 month i'm still waiting to have the pivot pin bushing replached, which i hope will fix it. Even if i does, i will weld a new pressure (gib) plate and bracket for it, since this seems to be a weakness in the newer Wadkins

 

[SammyQ]

Peter, I thought I had it sorted, but when I put it back together, something was still catching. I think there is a raw edge or slight bump somewhere on the pivoting plate, catching the main fixed plate. Despite the fact it should be polished and shiny from contact, I am having a spot of bother seeing its exact location.
That was where I got to ten days ago. Since then, some health issues have arisen in the family and I've had to divert my spare time into travelling and supporting them. I hope to have a little time to spare to get really grimy and dirty this weekend!

I am also having real problems matching the shade of Hammerite used, so I may just say "AH PHOOEY!" and paint the whole thing forest bgreen...

Sam

 

[davem62]

hi peter,

it seems i have the same saw set up as you ,and although the rise and fall was stuck when i purchase it ,due to rusting between the trunnion and clamping plate assembly,the rise and fall is now reasonably smooth.
After i removed the clamping plate i folded some fine grit wet and dry paper and placed it between the swinging arm and trunion assembly and put the pinch bracket back on and lifted and lowered the blade a few times to clean the inside faces,as i didn't want to do a full strip down as this saw has done little work since the previous owner had bought it reconditioned.
This is my first quality saw, so i have no past experience of how much effort should be required but i think its fine.
I then lubricated all the slide faces and worm drives with bicycle chain dry teflon lube,
hth

dave

 

[Peter G Denmark]

Ok - seems you have the same problem as me, which iv'e written a long post on - damn - had hoped you found the solution .

The problem with the action is, that the more you lower the blade mechanism, more of the spindle bracket is unsuppported by the trunnion bracket. So a lot of stress it put on a very small surface, if the pivot pin has the slightest bit of play.

So the spindle bracket is actually kind of pinched between the motor bracket trapping piece and the trunnion bracked at a very slight angle, because the weight of the motor wants to pull the spindle bracket in under the trunnion.

Try taking a feeler gauge, and check if there isn't a small gap between the spindle bracket and the trunnion, and check if this gap widens as you lower the blade.

You can check my post here: table-saw-wadkin-ags10-rise-and-fall-problem-jagged-t55249.html

When i get a new bronze bushing installed at the pivot point, and i've made a new gib way, i'll let you know if it solved the problem.

 

[Peter G Denmark]

BTW - i found another small problem, that's easy to fix. The brass screw that treads into the gib has a brass nut to hold it in place. That brass screw can actually interfere with the motor mount, which will give a slight bump when lowering.
I happened to me, so i made a new gib plate (just a 10 mm steel plate) and tapped a M10 hole in it to accept the brass screw, but moved it inwards by about 2 mm, so it would clear the motor mount.

Also - try to take a feeler gauge, and see if you can get the smallest blade in anywhere between the bracket and the trunion. Sometimes the warp over the years, ever so slightly, but it's enough to make for an unsmooth rise and fall.

You could have them milled flat, and the it would be perfect.

 

[lady woody]

Dave, I've got the same problem with my ancient AGS. The extension wings come off with three bolts each, dead easy, just make sure you support their weight RIGHT FROM THE START or you'll strip threads. Motor ditto, support and care. Turning the saw unit upside down,the bottom - pressed steel - pedestal is also straightforward, four bolts and packing pieces. This is as far as I've presently got. The top seems to be held by four more bolts, sortof accessible, and I think our problem will be more obvious when we remove the top and expose the trunions etc. I'm hoping for mild weather this weekend to decapitate mine and suss out 'what next?'.

Sam

PS Where are you in Ponty? There was an AGS in Womersly Road for a long time on Ebay. Bloke wanted a bit much, but I don't think anyone took him on; might be open to approach?

Sammy can i ask you a question

 

[SammyQ]

Sounds intriguing, fire away!

You can't PM me yet, not enough posts; try [email protected] if you don't want to post here.

Sam