wadkin ags 10 riving knife

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bobcat

Established Member
Joined
3 Jan 2008
Messages
43
Reaction score
4
Location
Devon
Hi all can anyone out there help me i have a wadkin ags 10 which i have rebuilt in the last couple of years, and up till now i have used the saw without a riving knife :shock: does anyone outthere have the measurments or is willing to draw around theres and send it to me via email, its the old model around 1970,allhelp is greatly appreciated.
Tim
 
Can do that for you, not till Monday though, let me know if you get sorted before then.
 
I have a BRT10 - basically an AGS10 with a sliding table. I measured these components ages ago and did a couple of scans as well.

Knife and guard components. The guard (and I assume the knife) is for all variants of 10 and 12 AGP (incl M and P). The knife is 2.4mm thick, 230 mm high and 172 long. the closed slot the guard bolts through is 95 x 10. The open slot that fits into the bracket and allows height adjustment is also 10 wide with the two flanges either side 12.5 or 13 mm wide. The concave front surface of the knife is chamfered to a point.

The guard is 20 mm thick, 285 long and a maximum of 60 deep. It is fabricated from 4mm steel (maybe aluminium)

The bolt to clamp the guard to the knife is 8mm.

http://www.drosera.f2s.com/rivscan1.jpg
http://www.drosera.f2s.com/rivscan2.jpg

I have got other pictures that are not showing up on my original post - I'll find them later and post links to them.

Misterfish
 
thanks mr fish,
do you have pictures of the gaurd as i dont have one at present fabrication is no problem,access to welders and plasma cutteris available to me its the drawings thati dont have
Tim
 
bobcat":18u9x8s3 said:
thanks mr fish,
do you have pictures of the gaurd as i dont have one at present fabrication is no problem,access to welders and plasma cutteris available to me its the drawings thati dont have
Tim

I've just been checking what I've got so hope these help a bit
riv1.JPG

riv2.JPG

riv3.JPG

riv4.JPG

riv5.JPG

riv6.JPG

riv7.JPG

riv8.JPG


Hope this is of help.

Misterfish
 
Thanks again for your time and effort, s it possible to measure the gaurd and let me know the dimensions so i can fabricate the same .
kind regards Tim
 
That looks exactly like mine, if you can try and incorporate some form of extraction to cut down on dust from the top, I keep meaning to do that on mine as yet still not done it.
 
I'm not sure what else you want me to measure apart from the basic dimensions (The guard is 20 mm thick, 285 long and a maximum of 60 deep. It is fabricated from 4mm steel (maybe aluminium)).

If you want I could try scanning it from the side and from below to try to give a more accurate shape than you can probably produce from the photos. Letr me know if you want me to do that and I'll try and do it later today (weather permitting!)

Misterfish
 
Hi mrfish if you could scan it if poss that would be great ,then i will leave you alone :lol:
Many thanks Tim
 
I've done some scans so let's hope they help.

g01.jpg


g02.jpg


g03.jpg


g04.jpg


g05.jpg


As I mentioned before the size is 20 mm thick, 285 long and a maximum of 60 deep. It is fabricated from 4mm aluminium - I checked and it is not magnetic.

Misterfish
 
Thank you for all your time and effort misterfish ,i will start fabrication this weekend, by the way how do you get onwith the fence ,mine seems to run toe out at the out feed end and not dead square tot he blade when adjusted?
Tim
 
Tim, the Wadkin fences are designed to be SLIGHTLY out to avoid released stresses in cut wood pinching the blade, causing kickback, BUT......check your saw has its top parallel to the blade? As in check mitre guage channel is same distance from a (fully raised) blade rear tooth as it is to a front tooth. If these two dimensions are identical, gnat's todger and all that, means top is where it should be. If the two values are different, look up inside the casing from the motor aperture, loosen off the four nuts holding the top on its studs and use a rubber persuader to nudge the top into parallel with the blade. Job done, tighten nuts.

Still wonky? Then I suggest you look carefully at the fence bolts on the front of your machine, rail may be skewed? Need to measure the distance of fence rail to saw top edge all along it. Remedial action if distances vary: washers to re-establish fence rail parallelism to the saw top edge. Fudge and footer, fettle and cuss....


Come back if you want more, I've got a few photos of mine disassembled.

Sam
 
Hi Sammyq the table and blade are around 5 thou front to backno drift in the front fence rail around 10-15 thou, so all is well there.
my actual concern is when using th micro adjuster to bring thefence toward the blade the far end seems to drag, and the fence appears to go out of square to the blade,i have tried to adjust this by means of the cam clamps but to no avail, the fence is out by 16th evey time, or am i just being fussy.
Tim
 
"the far end seems to drag"....that's a friction issue. Check that the fence is fully releasing the 'claw' at the far end when you flip up the locking lever. (I presume you fully flip it up before you use the small knob/adjuster beside it?). Also, rub a candle under the fence and around the inside of the 'claw'. It doesn't help if the fence rails are rough to;, a rub with a webxrax pad full of metal polish and a good buff off will help.

Sam
 
Which type of fence have you got? The one that Sam mentions is full length and clamps at both front and back whereas the one on my machine only has a front rail and clamp with a shorter fence.

Misterfish
 
Hi Sammyq checked table to blade all ok around 2thou deviation, front fence rail around 5thou out of true end to end, sono problems there, the problem i have is that the claw end of the fence appears to drag when the micro adjuster is moved toward the blade and the fence runs out around 1/8th of an inch,or ami just being fussy.
Tim
 
Back
Top