Using exterior paint indoors (for woodwork)

[Krome10]

Hi all

I am having a new back door fitted next week, and whilst at it I am repainting the old front door.

I was planning to use the same paint for the whole door and frame (so both the interior and exterior sides of the doors), but have now stumbled across the idea that exterior paints "off gas" as they contain biocides/fungicide or whatever.

I wondered what the thoughts of people 'round here are on the subject.

The paint I'm using for the front door is: Alcro Besta Fonsterfarg Tra:

http://www.alcropaints.co.uk/shop/outdo ... nt-3litre/

And for the back door I'm using Scala [Colorex] Klassisk Oljefarg:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5TOZ- ... sp=sharing

Many thanks

Max

 

[blackrodd]

For some reason, the smartasses in charge have taken out the lead from paint, which is dangerous, (especially when sanding) and replaced it with ghastly chemicals that are just as bad for you, hence the chemical smells you have mentioned particularly in exterior quality paint, as you say.
As you have made you're choice with the brand, and have the paperwork too, I suggest you ask the manufacturers
that very question direct.
Don't forget that painting Central heating radiators with standard u/coat and gloss leads apparently to a stead flow of dodgy gasses
Some time ago, in my contracting days, I was fixing the ceiling and partition's in a new scanner unit at our local hospital.
Low odour paint was specified, and I have never smelt anything more unpleasant and it soon transpired that any marks or damage couldn't be "touched in" stuck out like a sore thumb, and made some peoples eyes water.
As far as I can remember the ceiling was re finished about 4, or 5 times, luckily I was not contra charged!
Regards Rodders

 

[Jacob]

I use only http://www.oldhousestore.co.uk/allback- ... t-44-c.asp inside and out. It's utterly superior to modern paints except in 3 respects - not the range of bright colours, not highly glossy and slightly slower drying. No VOCs, high coverage, easy to apply, sticks to anything it seems, no solvents needed for cleaning and so on.

 

[Selwyn]

jacob ive read in the past youve painted on old gloss with this. Do you still recommend this - I find in wet west wales gloss doesn't last

 

[Jacob]

jacob ive read in the past youve painted on old gloss with this. Do you still recommend this - I find in wet west wales gloss doesn't last

I've painted over gloss which had lifted badly; I wire brushed off everything loose, sanded to get a key, washed down with soapy water. When dry applied linseed oil as a primer. Then Allback paint over that. It sticks like sh|t to a blanket and seems to keep the old gloss underneath stabilised and well stuck.
I've got a south facing outside T&G shed door as a 7 year test piece. T&G is often hopeless with modern gloss as it starts lifting at the edges, but linseed keeps it all stuck on.

 

[Krome10]

Many thanks for the helpful replies.

I think I will try some different paints in the future, so thanks for the Allback tip Jacob. I did once consider Holkham paints, which I'm guessing might be similar (linseed)? I thought I read at the time that it is only suitable for bare timber, which is why I did not use it in the end. Perhaps I need to go back to that and see why I thought that/where I read it.

Cheers

 

[Jacob]

Many thanks for the helpful replies.

I think I will try some different paints in the future, so thanks for the Allback tip Jacob. I did once consider Holkham paints, which I'm guessing might be similar (linseed)? I thought I read at the time that it is only suitable for bare timber, which is why I did not use it in the end. Perhaps I need to go back to that and see why I thought that/where I read it.

Cheers

Holkham Hall were marketing Allback under their own name but it's now available from a lot of distributors.
They would probably promote it as only suitable for bare timber as there is no knowing what type of old paint it might be put on as presumably not all will be compatible.
In my case it was on top of ordinary Leyland gloss from a local paint shop which had started to fail very quickly - only a year or so. The linseed stuck really well - going strong after 7years and holding down the remainder of the gloss underneath.

I've been blagging on about it for about 8 years. People are often doubtful, but nobody has come up with any evidence contradicting my experience.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

I've been blagging on about it for about 8 years. People are often doubtful, but nobody has come up with any evidence contradicting my experience.

If someone is still singing the praises of a paint product after 8 years, it must surely be worth trying ! Thanks for the tip Jacob.

 

[Woodchips2]

jacob ive read in the past youve painted on old gloss with this. Do you still recommend this - I find in wet west wales gloss doesn't last

I've painted over gloss which had lifted badly; I wire brushed off everything loose, sanded to get a key, washed down with soapy water. When dry applied linseed oil as a primer. Then Allback paint over that. It sticks like sh|t to a blanket and seems to keep the old gloss underneath stabilised and well stuck.
I've got a south facing outside T&G shed door as a 7 year test piece. T&G is often hopeless with modern gloss as it starts lifting at the edges, but linseed keeps it all stuck on.

Jacob - did you use boiled linseed oil for the primer or raw ?

Regards Keith

 

[Jacob]

jacob ive read in the past youve painted on old gloss with this. Do you still recommend this - I find in wet west wales gloss doesn't last

I've painted over gloss which had lifted badly; I wire brushed off everything loose, sanded to get a key, washed down with soapy water. When dry applied linseed oil as a primer. Then Allback paint over that. It sticks like sh|t to a blanket and seems to keep the old gloss underneath stabilised and well stuck.
I've got a south facing outside T&G shed door as a 7 year test piece. T&G is often hopeless with modern gloss as it starts lifting at the edges, but linseed keeps it all stuck on.

Jacob - did you use boiled linseed oil for the primer or raw ?

Regards Keith

Raw.
Holkham's (Allbacks) own brand. Best done warmed up and onto a warm surface if possible. It runs very freely into every crack and crevice including capillary gaps under lifting paint. I read somewhere there is a technical reason for this - something to do with surface tension.

 

[Woodchips2]

Thanks Jacob, much appreciated.

Regards Keith