Using a No80 scraper - update

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dedee

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I think I've got the hang of it at last.

80shavings.jpg


Thanks to Bugbear for stating the obvious and making it stick , Alf for the burnisher and Chris for showing me how to use it properly.

Having read again all the links and info from my earlier thread I may well invest in a new thicker blade. This is such a sweet tool to use.


Andy
 
Hey Andy, nice work...
I finally got around to putting some reading to practice the other day with a cabinet scraper. I'd had one for ages, but had only made dust with it. Over Christmas, I had a chance to put a proper hook on it, and get shavings. Very satisfying. I'm now seriously considering getting something like a No.80. That picture has just motivated me on some more!!
 
Andy, careful, after mastering (hope I'm not tempting fate here) the No 80 I am now considering a full size scraper plane. The slope awaits.

Andy
 
And the slope gets steeper <g>...

Seriously, good job. Scrapers are an almost forgotten part of woodworking judging by the number of people who have attended handplane classes I have taught that didn't know what they are.

The scraper plane is another step down the slope--but a good one.

Take care, Mike
 
Shavings with the supplied blade are a considerable achievement, well done.

If you get a replacement Hock blade, which is 2.4mm thick, I think you will at least double the performance.

I assume you have flattened and polished the sole? They are notoriously UNflat.

David C
 
David, thanks, I'll worried now that the next time I use it will not be so effective, although the Hock blade is now on the wish list.

David C":1e2zv2ok said:
I assume you have flattened and polished the sole? They are notoriously UNflat.

Err no :oops: not yet anyway. I'll give the sole a check later. Interestingly that piece of oak in the picture was highly polished and I found the tool harder to control on the polished surface than the bare wood, it seemed to slide and the blade took less shavings on the polished surface then the bare. Would this be an indication that the sole was flat and smooth?

Andy
 
Do you have a specific use/project in mind for the No.80 Andy?
 
Tom, .

That piece of oak in the picture is from some old wardrobes that I required some years ago. The timber is generally straight and true and flat but the finish is not to my taste. I have used the #80 to remove the old finish. The scraper plane leaves a very smooth surface and I did not have to worry about grain direction which I could have caused me some problems if I had attacked the surface with a smoothing plane.

That wood will be used for my competition project and I fully intend to use the scraper for final surface preparation rather than sandpaper.

It really does seem to be a nice easy silly person proof tool to use. Even if it is not sharpened correctly it will not do any damage, just produce dust instead of shavings. The one caveat is not to set the blade too deep as this produces a judder through the tool and a ripple affect on the wood.

Andy
 
Cheers Andy, I think i'm going invest in a No.80.
 
Tom,
The one I have is an old enherited tool more recent incarnations may not be as good, also see DC's note on aftermarket blades. I am sure others around here are better placed to comment om that.

Andy
 
dedee":1jrqxuwh said:
The one I have is an old enherited tool more recent incarnations may not be as good, also see DC's note on aftermarket blades.
Please note technical details above first picture. Even Stanley can't really screw up a #80, although the blade is much, much smaller than it used to be and the sole was virtually corrugated the machining's so coarse. So far the urge to spend the same again on a Hock blade has been easily resisted, but then I'm not using scrapers nearly so much these days. And almost certainly not as much as DC does. If I was, well I might well put the Hock blade cost towards the Veritas anyway, and get a better tool and have done with it.

Cheers, Alf
 

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