using a beading tool/scratch stock

[dedee]

I've been using the Veritas beading tool with a reading cutter on some ladder treads (oak) for a bunk bed.

Is the technique for using a beading tool the same as for the multiplanes, ie start furthest away and work backwards?

Also I could only only use the tool vertically when pulling. Is this a technique or strength problem or quite normal?

Andy

 

[bugbear]

I've been using the Veritas beading tool with a reading cutter on some ladder treads (oak) for a bunk bed.

Is the technique for using a beading tool the same as for the multiplanes, ie start furthest away and work backwards?

Absolutely.

With the exception that since a beading tool cuts equally wel (or badly...) in both directions, you can accomodate to the grain direction better. You should also work both ends separately, since about the hardest thing to do with a scratch is start at the near end - so don't!

Also I could only only use the tool vertically when pulling. Is this a technique or strength problem of quite normal?

Interesting. Not a problem I've had, so I can (usefully) comment.
The tool only needs to be vertical on the last few strokes - up until then a slightly angled approach often cuts more sweetly.

Here's my scratch stock information page:

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/scratch.html

BugBear

 

[Colin C]

Hi Andy

I think you might have the cutter out to far, from what you have said but I could be wrong

 

[dedee]

BB thanks, for the link. The near end certainly was difficult until I started to pull the tool towards me. I also had to make some wooden bench dogs as the rubber coated metal ones were in danger of making a mess of the cutter

Colin, I cannot believe that I had the cutter too far out - the curve of the reed was barely visible under the tool post with the fence only about 1/2" from the cutter.

I am not dissapointed with the results but as is often the case, not having been taught how to use the tool, I could not be sure if I was doing it right.
I am sure if I had used something other than oak it could have been easier.

Andy

 

[Paul Kierstead]

Maple takes scratch really nicely; I expect any very fine grained hardwood does. Oak seems to be easy enough to do, but doesn't leave as nice of a surface.

You should be able to tilt the cutter quite a lot and easily at the beginning. You tilt in the direction of the cut, as you would with a scraper. Take very light passes; it requires patience and the scratch stock doesn't exactly hog off material. For smaller workpieces, it is nice to hold the piece in the hand or against the chest or the like and use the scratch stock one-handed for the Veritas. This makes it a little easier to find some 'zen' and just do it without noticing the passage of time. Take advantage of silence and play some music. Relax and just let it happen. Generally little force is required; about the only time i had a rough time is doing a rounded surface in maple and as you went around the corner, it tended to be really hard at certain angles to the end-grain.

 

[bugbear]

Hi Andy

I think you might have the cutter out to far, from what you have said but I could be wrong

There is no choice on cutter projection; it must be out far enough such that when the body "grounds out" the bead is the correct size and depth.

BugBear

 

[Colin C]

Hi BB

I understand that but I have found that some tiimes it can be easier to do some mouldings in two stages ( I have use and made them for years ).

With some woods I find that doing it in one hit works better but you just have to try and see

 

[Philly]

Only other hints I can provide are....
Put the majority of effort into keeping the fence tight against the stock.
Stroke a stick of wax on the work during the early stages to make the work smoother (it works, honest!)
And finally, straight grained stock makes all the difference.
Hope this helps,
Philly

 

[bugbear]

And finally, straight grained stock makes all the difference.

I've found a scratch stock will work fine on twiddly grain, as long as the wood is hard enough.

BugBear

 

[Colin C]

I think what Philly means is that twiddly grain can be a problem as the cutter can some times follow the grain if it is running to the edge you are using but I am not a mind reader and could be wrong :roll: .

 

[Philly]

Woodwork is so much easier on tight, straight grained, knot free timber. Which is why you never seem to find any! :lol:
As BB says, the harder the wood the easier to scratch (regardless of grain direction) But on medium hardwoods (cherry, walnut, etc) they prefer to be cut instead of scraped. If the grain is a bit "wayward" the scraper tends to lift the fibres (as well as making it harder to keep the fence tight to the stock)
Hope this helps,
Philly

 

[bugbear]

as well as making it harder to keep the fence tight to the stock

The point about the fence is important; since scratching is a relatively slow cutting process, you'll be there a while.

It's easy to lose concentration - and if you do, and don't keep the fence tight, you will mess up the work in a single stroke.

BugBear

 

[dedee]

It's easy to lose concentration - and if you do, and don't keep the fence tight, you will mess up the work in a single stroke.
BugBear

Nah. Not me and so what if one tread has 5 reeds and the rest only 4? Hasn't been noticed yet!

Andy