Triton TA184CSL 240v Circular Saw Thoughts ?

[TRITON]

Ive just bought this -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261536303875? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Its to go into their dedicated saw bench. I was wanting the 235mm for the 87mm depth of cut but i think this does 52mm which is enough for just now and to be honest deep ripping wide boards always scares the willies out of me. Theres a lot of exposed blade. Im used to industry saws averaging 450mm and robinson rip to 20" cut but even 60mm and its sleeves up and lots of long things to push with :lol:

Anyone tried this particular model ? I know the older 235mm is a popular beast of high reputation but these new magnesium versions havent really had the reviews.
1800w will power through just about anything. Might be a bit of deflection with that thin a blade(2.2mm standard) but i suppose theyre make a trade off of power. Only ever likely to be fitted to a table as it intended really though it has the obligatory laser.

They sell jigsaws with laser these days #-o

 

[Eric The Viking]

Table? It has no riving knife!!!

 

[TRITON]

Table? It has no riving knife!!!

Its for the Triton table which has a riving knife as part of the crown guard.

As it turned out the one i got was an ex demo which turned out to be non functional so will be returned and ill just save the pennies and opt for the 234mm instead.And ill be buying it new :wink:

 

[Eric The Viking]

Er, it doesn't, I fear.

Unless I misunderstand something the table actually has a support for the crown guard, but it can't be close enough to the back of the blade to be called a riving knife.

The HSE says this: "A riving knife must be fitted and adjusted to within 8mm of the blade. As well as acting as a back guard this stops the wood from closing up onto the blade and being ejected."

OK, they're writing generally and with industrial use in mind, but the table also has a long fence, going well past the front of the blade. That's an easy fix, by fitting a sub-fence, but the riving knife thing would be a lot harder to rectify. I guess you could make a new guard support that came forward close to the blade, but it wouldn't easily be height-adjustable.

It's not very dangerous if used correctly, though, I agree.

On an operational note, can you set the fence to the right of the blade too? I find it handy using the mitre fence to have a distance stop (very short sub-fence) to the right, so I can set the length of what I'm cross cutting and have the cut pieces exit to the right as normal. (It's effectively the same as a length stop on the mitre saw). That way I can work through a piece of long stock cutting equal lengths.

E.

PS: I'm an amateur - the largest saw I've used is probably 250mm, but I used to play under big Wadkins as a child (in the sawdust pits). They weren't on at the time, mind. A round spanking if caught, unfortunately the amount of sawdust on woolly jumpers often gave the game away!

 

[TRITON]

All the triton saws are designed to fit into the triton saw table and its not too far away at all
The table and saw ive featured are available as a package. Most triton set ups ive seen are the big original 9 3/4" saw. I was asking about the new version. Which is of course designed to be used in their table.

How is it going to bind ?? At the beginning ? thats not unusual and you push harder till its through or withdraw it and pass it through again. Any movement will be removed as you put it back through.
Full length fences are also fine and are not going to cause any issue or problem. The only stipulation is for it to be parallel.
A sub fence that stops in line with the leading edge of the blade is just to allow pieces to clear as you cross cut off using the fence as a length size stop.

Fence can be used either side.
Only issue i have is it doesnt appear that you cant utilize the 45degree and are stuck with the blade being at 90d only. Theres a sub fence available but ive used that on a friends Triton workcenter and although effective its a bit of a fiddle and i dont like anything that distracts my attention .

Im surprised the Triton isnt more well known or that being set as a table rather. Most of the hobby woody forums i visited did have plenty of threads on it so im surprised at your being unsure of putting the two together.

This is the saw most choose to fit and for a while it was the only triton saw available.
http://www.tritontools.com/en-US/Model/TSA001
This is a new version they released
http://www.tritontools.com/en-US/Model/TA235CSL

The 184mm i bought is the smaller version of the new one. Ill be opting now for the TSA001 in the first link. and honestly, if it was a problem it would have presented itself in the 30 odd years theyve been running this set up :?

 

[Eric The Viking]

How is it going to bind ?? At the beginning ? thats not unusual and you push harder till its through or withdraw it and pass it through again. Any movement will be removed as you put it back through.
Full length fences are also fine and are not going to cause any issue or problem. The only stipulation is for it to be parallel.
A sub fence that stops in line with the leading edge of the blade is just to allow pieces to clear as you cross cut off using the fence as a length size stop.

What you've written above is pretty much the old American view. They are now beginning to fit riving knives and short fences, for safety reasons. It's taken a while. If it's too far back from the blade, I believe it's called a splitter, and doesn't properly function as a riving knife.

You might want to look at the HSE recommendations, some accident reports, and various videos on-line of kickback.

Steve Maskery made a kickback video in his training DVD on tablesaw safety. I think the experiment scared him, too. He consulted with the HSE whilst making it.

Fence can be used either side.
Only issue i have is it doesnt appear that you cant utilize the 45degree and are stuck with the blade being at 90d only. Theres a sub fence available but ive used that on a friends Triton workcenter and although effective its a bit of a fiddle and i dont like anything that distracts my attention .

Im surprised the Triton isnt more well known or that being set as a table rather. Most of the hobby woody forums i visited did have plenty of threads on it so im surprised at your being unsure of putting the two together.

This is the saw most choose to fit and for a while it was the only triton saw available.
http://www.tritontools.com/en-US/Model/TSA001
This is a new version they released
http://www.tritontools.com/en-US/Model/TA235CSL

The 184mm i bought is the smaller version of the new one. Ill be opting now for the TSA001 in the first link. and honestly, if it was a problem it would have presented itself in the 30 odd years theyve been running this set up :?

Go look.

 

[Steve Maskery]

This is Triton's own image. This setup would not pass as legal in a commercial environment in the UK. In your own domestic workshop we can do as we wish, of course, but the risks are still there and we ignore the safety advice at our own peril.

That is not a riving knife. It is FAR too far away from the blade. It's not even a very good splitter. I agree it is better than nothing. Slightly. A proper RK is curved to follow the curve of the blade, rises and falls with the blade and is set 3-8mm from the teeth.

Make a short fence for ripping and use the full fence for cutting panels. Glad to hear you have your push-sticks sorted.

Steve

 

[TRITON]

Thanks for the concern and i hear what you are saying and will consider something else :?

Its that ive got the router and router table and its probably the best router ive used ,choice of saw is it needs OOmpff and triton would supply that without issue, and given its all hardwood in using i need something with OOmpff.
As said ill be deep ripping with this and the larger blade would be advantageous.

Any suggestions ?

 

[Eric The Viking]

Being slightly cheeky, having a router permanently set up is very handy. Even then, my router table doubles as an assembly table. Having to convert it each time would add time and unnecessary fiddling to the job.

I still haven't seen a better value table saw than the Axy TS200. It's got limitations, true, and it's designed down to a price too. But you can get the basic machine and add bits to it as funds permit, like a sliding carriage and extensions to the table. It's not a "compromise" design, but intended to be a safe saw* from the start. If you want more depth of cut there's a bigger brother too. I bet there are others around. but a cabinet saw is indeed a useful thing. You can make sleds, mitre cut things of odd shape and at odd angles, and cut things very precisely.

So might you have both... ?

E.

*for tablesaw values of 'safe' - they are dangerous tools nad need to be treated so, always.

 

[TRITON]

Sorry Eric ,no. Ive the triton router table(RSA300) the triton router table(RTA300) the 1/2" triton router(TRA001) AND the Triton saw table(TCB100) Triton saw(TA184c)

My problem is space and having the separate machines means i can have one in use while the other is out the way. I dont have the room to have either set up permanently as its sharing it space with several bikes and a shed load of their components.
So it all needs to hang out the way till needed.
The only thing except a bench that i would need to make sure i have room for, is a planer thicknesser, which ive still to buy . That will be along the lines of an axminster 106 ,a simple top for that gives me more bench top room for gluing etc. It can live against one wall and be more or less out the way and leave central space to build the project in.

As to using them im as clued up having been using a sedgwick for the last 5 years and a wadkin PP 4 years prior to that and God how i'd love a PP Big stuff im fine with, its doing projects at home on these and coming up with the right kit, which is good value and versatile . I can fit a professional saw in it where the axminster will never be anything other than a cheap saw. Plus i lose the ability to hang it out the way

TBH the TS200 is a toy. I personally wouldnt trust it to cut true or straight that is if it has the power to cut anything which is usually the measure of cheap machinery in all its guises :? A mayfell 1/2" router is about £750 yet a mafell planer/thicknesser is £450. Therefore the Planer is cheap and not worth the effort.
Axminster make some great trade tools but their bottom range is just that :?