Track saw ripping

[marcros]

Following on from a comment by Steve on tablesaw-question-t69968.html

If I bought a track saw and wanted to do some ripping of wayney edged hardwood- one of the justifications for buying the saw- is it not just a matter of changing the blade to a rip one when needed? I dont really want to damage anything, and might want to use the same setup for cutting sheet goods (with the appropriate blade in).

 

[Steve Maskery]

Good q. In one sense, yes you just change the blade. But the rubber edge of the track starts out wider than it needs to be and you calibrate the track to the saw by running the blade along the edge. This trims the rubber and you get a nice zero-clearance edge. You know that wherever you put that edge, that is where the cut is going to be.

But when you change the blade things can change. If the kerf is identical, then you have nothing to worry about. But if it is different, even a bit different, it will either trim more of the rubber off (if it is wider than your cross-cut), thus becoming zero-clearance for the rip blade but not when you replace your cross-cut blade, or it will not damage the rubber but not cut up to it (if it is thinner than the cross-cut).

You can buy replacement rubbers but it's an expensive thing to do regularly.

HTH
Steve

 

[carlb40]

Good q. In one sense, yes you just change the blade. But the rubber edge of the track starts out wider than it needs to be and you calibrate the track to the saw by running the blade along the edge. This trims the rubber and you get a nice zero-clearance edge. You know that wherever you put that edge, that is where the cut is going to be.

But when you change the blade things can change. If the kerf is identical, then you have nothing to worry about. But if it is different, even a bit different, it will either trim more of the rubber off (if it is wider than your cross-cut), thus becoming zero-clearance for the rip blade but not when you replace your cross-cut blade, or it will not damage the rubber but not cut up to it (if it is thinner than the cross-cut).

You can buy replacement rubbers but it's an expensive thing to do regularly.

HTH
Steve

I guess one way around the kerf issue, while more expensive up front. 2 sets of tracks? one rip, one crosscut? But cheaper in the long run?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Big outlay, but it would work.

 

[marcros]

Thanks Steve.

According to http://www.axminster.co.uk/festool-fest ... rod823729/, the kerf is the same. Is this not actually the case then?

 

[carlb40]

Also thinking about it. Using the track saw on waney edge boards the cut will not need to be 100 % perfect within reason? Due to further cutting/ planing. So a simple home made straight edge would suffice? Then keep the rails for cross cutting.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I was just about to post the same idea.
My rip blade for the CC saw is not the same, but that's probably because it's not a Festool blade. I forget the make, but it was £16 instead of a mortgage, but it did knacker up the rubber somewhat.
S

 

[marcros]

whilst that is true, i really want the conveniece of putting down the track where I want the cut, and having the saw run along it- otherwise i may as well just buy a decent circular saw. It doesnt need to be accurate to within a mm on the wayne edged stuff, i am more concerned that it is when i return to sheet material.

The budget does not stretch to 2 sets of rails because i plan to buy the expensive 2700mm rail!

 

[Steve Maskery]

Then buy a blade which you know is going to have the same kerf and hope they are telling the truth
S

 

[Eric The Viking]

Steve is right, but for what it's worth I've swapped my Makita fine cut blade for the more standard one quite often. It's actually even a different diameter ("why, Makita, why???"), but the kerf is so close to identical I've yet to have issues. I need to get a proper ripping blade, but it's well within the "it'll do" parameters.

It's worth mentioning that they don't obey the 'tablesaw rules' exactly, in that the rake is very slight if not negative, which changes the behaviour somewhat. Also the Festool has a riving knife, which the Makita doesn't. That hasn't been a problem in use, but might affect behaviour.

To be honest the biggest issue I'd expect would be moisture content. These things were designed mainly for man made boards, and they do that job very well indeed. You might get "interesting" results ripping damp boards, although the sawdust collection is excellent on mine, and I believe also on the Festool. I'd still expect a cut edge that was usable straight off the saw, as long as the board surface wasn't too heavily marked by the resaw in the first place.

E.

PS: Just a thought: you might want to experiment with RPM once you've got a good rip blade. Given the rate of cut, a slower speed might be good, allowing the extraction to keep up and stopping things heating up too much.

 

[katellwood]

Dewalts can be used on both sides of the track so if you have a rip and crosscut blade of different kerfs you can use one side for ripping and the other side for x-cutting

Just a thought

 

[Steve Maskery]

ooh, that's a good idea.
S

 

[Peter T]

I've been using my TS55 for several years now without track problems.

I swap between a rip blade for breaking down waney edge boards, and a finer blade for MDF and veneered MDF without problems. Both blades are Festool.

I still get very good, clean edges on veneered boards, with no chipping or de-lamination.

 

[petermillard]

FWIW I've found the standard Festool blade to be surprisingly capable for rip cuts - I've used mine mostly in Redwood, but also in Oak, without any issues at all...

HTH Pete

 

[marcros]

thanks all. just waiting for festool to do a free second rail now...

 

[jhwbigley]

thanks all. just waiting for festool to do a free second rail now...

thanks all. just waiting for festool to do a free second rail now...

10% of one single item at Axminster till the 29th :wink:

Last waney edge stuff I dealt with was that up and downy I do not think I'd want to use a track saw on it. I just strick a chalk line and eyeball it on the bandsaw.

JH