Thos.P.Headland Table Saw??

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Scottdimelow

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I've just bought a saw made by Thomas P Headland, and can't find any info on it at all. My searches just come up with the company details.

Anyone used one or own one? It's the heaviest thing I've ever had to move!!
 
Here you go, I meant to add those in the first place. I've not taken any of the warped top yet.
 

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MMM, Nice bench, As you say They were in the Midlands, as well as London.
Get the straight edge and feeler gauges out and "plot" any daylight seen under the straight edge.
Don't forget corner to corner, each side.
Is it Single Phase, Running? etc.
Before you use this sawbench,
I strongly suggest you get a riving knife, guard and alter the fence length by adding a timber face, but only going as far as the teeth Gullet or root, in length, Or you could be filling out BUPA Forms for A&E.
Very dangerous!
Keep the pics comeing, Go on Utube and feed in KICKBACK!
Regards Rodders
 
That looks like a very nice saw! Unfortunately the brand is unknown to me.

Can it be fitted with a rivig knife as it is or do you have do make a new bracket for the riving knife?
Once fitted with riving knife and an aftermarket overarm guard and a simple home made wooden short fence attachment than clamps onto the fence it will be pretty much up to moderna safety standards.

Best wishes for many years of satisfying use to come!
 
That's Wadkin AGS clone if ever I saw one. With a strange pre-Beismeyer, Beismeyer fence... :shock: WTH?

Nice heavy bit of kit?

Sam

Edit: cast your mince pies on this on this: "http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/Thomas_P._Headland", also try this name in google search, LOTS of hits. Seems like Headlands were suppliers, not manufacturers?
 
The fence isn't bad really, I intend to replace it with a T-square one like I made for my TS200.

It's very heavy, I won't have to lock it down that's for sure. It's got a good solid lift/bevel mechanism, which seems to have no slop at all.
It does have a riving knife bracket but I never use one, find they get in the way. I'm fully aware of kickback, it makes me more alert not using a riving knife :)
 
Dimmaz88":pdzy92ca said:
The fence isn't bad really, I intend to replace it with a T-square one like I made for my TS200.

It's very heavy, I won't have to lock it down that's for sure. It's got a good solid lift/bevel mechanism, which seems to have no slop at all.
It does have a riving knife bracket but I never use one, find they get in the way. I'm fully aware of kickback, it makes me more alert not using a riving knife :)

Hello,

Have you ever seen the video on Fine Woodworking, where a fellow, in the interests of showing why a riving knife is essential, removed his to show what happens? Well he though he was doing us all a service by inviting a kick back, in essence, to prove that they cannot be prevented by anticipation, brute strength, hubris or quick reflexes. He nearly cut his hand off, when the wood he was holding forced it toward the blade, with 3 HP of force, (humans being about 1/6 HP it was like he was trying to stop an elephant moving him into a stampede). You should google it; the sick look on his face when he realised what he had done propelled his hand within 1/4 inch of the blade, tells an important message. PUT ON THE RIVING KNIFE! They don't get in the way, unless you are doing something you shouldn't. It is illegal not to have one in a commercial shop, so why should the rules be any different if you work at home? It takes a microsecond for you to regret forever you didn't make the machine safe and that microsecond will come sooner or later.

Mike.
 
Yeah I've seen the video and it was a stupid thing to do. Life is about calculating risk everyday, the way I use the saw is very safe. Using push blocks/sticks my hands are never near the blade.
 
Dimmaz88":190y48l5 said:
Yeah I've seen the video and it was a stupid thing to do. Life is about calculating risk everyday, the way I use the saw is very safe. Using push blocks/sticks my hands are never near the blade.

Hello

Your Axminster saw is a tinplate toy, compared to the proper saw you now have. I reiterate, if the riving knife gets in your way, YOU are doing something wrong. You will be bitten sooner or later and you are foolish if you think any different. It is a nice saw you have, I hope you will see sense and take the correct precautions. I have been working wood for decades and never needed to remove the riving knife for all the correct operations I have performed. What are you doing, that cannot be done with one fitted? I saw a kickback on a Wadkin AGS (real version of your saw) and luckily the operator was standing just to the right of where the projectile flew by. It went off with a bang like a gunshot, (I shoot and I'm not exaggerating) whizzed past the operators ear and stuck in a cement block wall behind. Get real, table saws are scary and complacency is downright stupid.

Mike.
 
Why replace the fence? I doubt a new fence will be any better than what you have.

My personal oppinion about riving knives is that it should always be cut down to such a height that it doesn't protrude above the top of the blade. Such a riving knife doesn't get in the way when doing threnching cuts. A riving knife that gets in the way will be removed sooner or later and then it doesn't protect anyone.
 
The saw is actually less powefull than my TS200, it only has a 1hp motor at present. Thanks for your concern guys, I may see if I can make a knife for it and try and get used to it.

The fence and rail setup is a bit naff, there's quite a bit of flex in it. I'm also a big advocate of askwoodmans T-square fences, they are the dog's..
 
When can you get the straight edge and feeler guages out and Measure this saw bench top, for warp etc ignoring the blade for now, the blade will be set to the table, not the other way round.
Regards Rodders
 
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