engineer one
Established Member
finally gotten round to doing some woodworking not thinking, this weekend.
needed to cut some stuff for the workbench and a re-modelled cupboard,
so dragged the 744 out of the corner and thought about what scrit had said earlier.
i moved that part of the standard fence which is adjustable so that it did not go beyond the centre of the blade when cutting.
NOW I UNDERSTAND. :roll:
like most people i had assumed there was a real value to having the fence extend beyond the blade, but it is actually easier and safer to use if the usable fence terminates by the centre line of the blade, however good the riving knife, as the wood goes past it it tends to move back so not having the fence there allows the expansion on the side away from the knife, and the wood does not bind.
ok so this time it was only on mdf and mfc, but nonetheless a decent lesson. those who have fences with adjustable cheeks i suggest you try it too if you have been used to using a full fence.
now though of course i have to make a proper cross cut sled to ensure that cuts over 600 are accurate and i do not have to subtract to get what i want. that's the problem with a right hand fence having to subtract to get over 600 wide. :? :lol:
course i could always get a bigger saw, but first a proper workshop, so fudge and stuff it is the way for the present :lol:
anyway thanks again scrit you ain't just health and safety, it also makes life easier.
paul :wink:
needed to cut some stuff for the workbench and a re-modelled cupboard,
so dragged the 744 out of the corner and thought about what scrit had said earlier.
i moved that part of the standard fence which is adjustable so that it did not go beyond the centre of the blade when cutting.
NOW I UNDERSTAND. :roll:
like most people i had assumed there was a real value to having the fence extend beyond the blade, but it is actually easier and safer to use if the usable fence terminates by the centre line of the blade, however good the riving knife, as the wood goes past it it tends to move back so not having the fence there allows the expansion on the side away from the knife, and the wood does not bind.
ok so this time it was only on mdf and mfc, but nonetheless a decent lesson. those who have fences with adjustable cheeks i suggest you try it too if you have been used to using a full fence.
now though of course i have to make a proper cross cut sled to ensure that cuts over 600 are accurate and i do not have to subtract to get what i want. that's the problem with a right hand fence having to subtract to get over 600 wide. :? :lol:
course i could always get a bigger saw, but first a proper workshop, so fudge and stuff it is the way for the present :lol:
anyway thanks again scrit you ain't just health and safety, it also makes life easier.
paul :wink:
