On the t track and t bolts from Rutlands, how much play is there between the two? If running a fence between 2 of the bolts at either side of a table saw table (T tracks running parallel say 18" apart), would it be possible to move the fence out of square simply by moving it forwards and back? Is there any way of avoiding this, by say machining a profile from acetal that is a couple of inches long and a tight fit?
T track
- Thread starter marcros
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davem62
Established Member
mark,
on the 3/4 inch track there is 12 thou clearance between the track and sliding guides,
hth dave
on the 3/4 inch track there is 12 thou clearance between the track and sliding guides,
hth dave
Benchwayze
Established Member
Marcros,
I'm not getting the picture here. Are you using part of your table saw for a router-table?
If so, you don't have to worry about the fence being parallel, because the centre of a router bit is a 'point', and not a straight line, as is a saw-blade.
If both sides of the fence are adjustable perpendicularly, to get them square to the table; can be moved in towards or away from the cutter, and are capable of being levelled in relation to each other. (Or being used as a vertical planer), then parallelism across the table isn't an issue.
If you are using a mitre guide in a channel, to cut tenons, then the fence is lined up with the mitre guide channel and test cuts made on scrap first.
HTH
I'm not getting the picture here. Are you using part of your table saw for a router-table?
If so, you don't have to worry about the fence being parallel, because the centre of a router bit is a 'point', and not a straight line, as is a saw-blade.
If both sides of the fence are adjustable perpendicularly, to get them square to the table; can be moved in towards or away from the cutter, and are capable of being levelled in relation to each other. (Or being used as a vertical planer), then parallelism across the table isn't an issue.
If you are using a mitre guide in a channel, to cut tenons, then the fence is lined up with the mitre guide channel and test cuts made on scrap first.
HTH
no John,
This is still part of the planning for the table saw flip up entension part. I was thinking of removing the exrusions, and replacing them with t track front and back that a new fence runs in. I am going to take the router table extension off, and have a stand alone one to free up some space. 12 thou between the track and slider may be too much for this application where the fence must be parallel to the blade.
I follow what you are saying about the router table.
Mark
This is still part of the planning for the table saw flip up entension part. I was thinking of removing the exrusions, and replacing them with t track front and back that a new fence runs in. I am going to take the router table extension off, and have a stand alone one to free up some space. 12 thou between the track and slider may be too much for this application where the fence must be parallel to the blade.
I follow what you are saying about the router table.
Mark
Benchwayze
Established Member
marcros":3m3ndioc said:
Okies! (I don't have much faith in 'T' Track though.) Maybe to make a sliding stop for my Mitre-saw, but it doesn't need to be too accurate just for that, as long as I align it properly with the fence.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
You can make sure that T-track works smoothly and stays square by fitting a shallow tongue to the underside of whatever is sliding in it. It doesn't have to be very deep, just the thickness of the extrusion wall, but the longer it is the better it will work. I use this a lot in my jigs, anywhere where one part has to slide in a groove and it works a treat.
HTH
Steve
HTH
Steve
