Sycamore, should I ?

[Charlie Woody]

I have a couple of planks of sawn Sycamore, air dried, probably 20% MC.

I'm putting this in my timber rack (basically shelf brackets with softwood strips on the metal) to dry, should I plane it to flat & square (not final dimensions) to help with drying? Or is there a better way?

I run a dehumidifier above the timber rack.

 

[gasman]

20% sounds very wet for air dried??
I would carry on stacking it with air circulating all round and let it dry out a bit more
Mark

 

[katellwood]

doesn't Sycamore need to be dried vertically?

 

[riclepp]

Yes, sycamore must be dried vertically.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

20% sounds very wet for air dried??
I would carry on stacking it with air circulating all round and let it dry out a bit more. Mark

Air drying of wood here in the UK seldom brings the material to much below 20% MC, unless the process is supplemented by additional drying strategies, e.g., breaking down the pile and restickering it in a dry shed. Slainte.

 

[Charlie Woody]

Ok, thanks for the replies.

So It appears that opinion is divided on whether I should dry Sycamore vertically or horizontally, if I have understood correctly? Can somebody clarify please?

Also should I plane it to flat and square (not final dimensions)?

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Yes, sycamore must be dried vertically.

Vertical racking of sycamore and other maples, as well as other species subject to mould attack when green is only required during the initial drying period, i.e., immediately after converting into boards. Vertical racking in a draughty location usually lasts no more than a few days to remove the surface water. Thereafter, the boards are stickered up and dried as normal, either by air drying or through a kiln run. If the wood is to be kilned, it's often the case that it's stickered up straight after conversion, followed by a kiln run programme designed to prevent mould development, i.e., a short cycle of very fast drying to quickly remove the surface moisture. Slainte.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Also should I plane it to flat and square (not final dimensions)?

No. Leave it full thickness so that if there's additional warping, e.g., cupping, bowing, winding, etc, you've got more thickness to play with to get the stuff 'true' later. Slainte.

 

[Charlie Woody]

Thanks for that Sgian.