Sunflower oil finish

[OldWood]

OK perhaps this should go on the Finishing Board, but it's purely a turning matter so I reckon I will get a more experienced answer here.

Mark Baker in his book "Woodturning Projects" suggests Sunflower oil for finishing a 12" dia. Ash platter.

I've not seen this recommended before

1 What is its advantages / disadvantages ?

2 Is this just standard off the supermarket shelf sunflower oil ?

It's Wych Elm I'm using so query 3; is sunflower oil suitable for this or is some other finish better?

This is my first large surface area project and I suspect oil is preferred over the fast drying cellulose finishes.

Thanks
Rob

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

Is sunflower one of the oils that will go rancid? I've used olive oil on kitchen stuff because it gets washed regularly. If this is going to come into contact with food, perhaps salad bowl oil would be a better prospect?

 

[Dalboy]

I think we really need to know is it being used for food and how often will it be washed.

Just an example to hold fruit where the plater is only wiped with a cloth, then go for a food safe oil finish(look at some of the chestnut range)

If on the other hand it is to be eaten off on a very regular basis and washed(not in a dish washer please) then some of the food oils will be ok. Remember that nut oil is not suitable for everyone.

These are just a couple of examples.

 

[Bodrighy]

I use off the shelf food oils like sunflower etc for things that need to be food safe. The only one I have had go rancid is olive oil. To be honest there is a lot said about using special food safe oils but if something is in use regularly then there isn't a problem. For example I have a large mortar and pestle that is in regular use, made over three years ago and soaked in vegetable oil at the time. It is used a lot and has never gone rancid. If it is something that is going to sit around and just be used once in a blue moon then I would perhaps play safe and use one of the proprietary brands of food safe finishes. I would avoid walnut oil which some suggest as it can be a problem if someone has a nut allergy. Apart from that, rape, sunflower etc.Fine.

Pete

 

[andersonec]

I really do not understand why folks go for untested and home brews for finishing their wood, there are dozens of purpose made finishing oils out there, specific food safe oils, worktop oils etc. etc. which will finish your work with a far superior finish than a vegetable oil which are are just that, vegetable oils. They have no bacterial protection whatsoever and, as far as I am concerned, are more of a health hazard than other Tung based oils which will dry to a hard finish and which will hardly poison somebody with the tiny miniscule amounts which "could" be deposited on some fruit.
Use the proprietary brand oils which are made for the job, that way you will get the desired.

Andy

 

[Bodrighy]

Three reasons. 250ml of 'food safe oil' about £8, same amount of vegetable oil £1.
Also whoever buys the work from me has to maintain it and is hardly likely to go shopping for the proprietary brand when they have the suitable oil in their kitchen.
Tung oil also comes from cold pressed nuts which again can be hazardous to anyone with a nut allergy, something that is in ascendancy for some reason

If you are turning for a hobby maybe it is OK to lash out on the special stuff but it doesn't actually provide anything that isn't provided by the kitchen oil and turning full time I need to be aware of costs as well as what is best for the customer. There are a lot of things in turning as in other crafts that are hyped up as being the 'best solution' when in fact they are just someone making a profit out of people. I do worry about the things that some people use, woods and finishes, for things that are being sold as food safe. Not something I can afford to ignore.

Pete

 

[Silverbirch]

Far be it from me to contradict Mark Baker, who obviously knows a thing or two about turning, but I can`t see any advantage for the amateur, other than cost, in using sunflower oil instead of a proprietary finish designed for the job.
Assuming you want your platter to look good as well as be functional, I`d say a few quid for a bottle of finishing oil, which will treat a fair few bowls and platters, would be money well spent.

Ian

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

Good to know all of this. Being a beginner in the turning world, I'm a bit careful about buying loads of proprietary finishes for what I produce. I don't want to buy stuff with a short shelf life when I'm only in the shed at weekends. Some of the finishes I use are home cooked. I like using shellac in various potions and make my own paste wax. If the shellac "dies" it is relatively inexpensive to bin it and make up another batch.
I was always put off using cooking oils by my late uncle, but might give it a bash now

 

[Mark Hancock]

I really do not understand why folks go for untested and home brews for finishing their wood, there are dozens of purpose made finishing oils out there, specific food safe oils, worktop oils etc. etc. which will finish your work with a far superior finish than a vegetable oil which are are just that, vegetable oils. They have no bacterial protection whatsoever and, as far as I am concerned, are more of a health hazard than other Tung based oils which will dry to a hard finish and which will hardly poison somebody with the tiny miniscule amounts which "could" be deposited on some fruit.
Use the proprietary brand oils which are made for the job, that way you will get the desired.

Andy

Couldn't agree more. Cooking oils are for cooking, wood finishing oils are for wood.

 

[OldWood]

Many thanks guys - that's that topic well and truly exorcised then !!

Rob