Squaring up a home built saw table

[Iwf]

As I posted in another thread, I've built a saw table, Starting with a Makita 2712 site saw

http://www.makitauk.com/products/saws/table-saws/2712-site-saw-315mm.html

I built a frame around it, retaining the metal top, but discarding the saw legs and the rest of it. The saw sits in a 3/4 ply top with a hole cut out around the metal top, and on a pine frame. As things stand I can adjust the height of the saw atop independent of the frame and I've sorted a crude mechanism to hold things horizontally. I retained the saw metal top so as not to lose 3/4 by mounting the saw under the top, and also to allow me to use magnetic feather boards.

I bought the Axminster rip fence upgrade which is attached to the front of the table. Now it's time to commission and square things up. I think the order is:

1. Square the saw blade to the fence, moving the saw to the frame and locking in place.
1a . Fix the table top into the frame
2. Using the fence cut the slots for the sled.
3. Build the sled

Am I missing anything?

Cheers

 

[MattRoberts]

Typically the fence has the most adjustment capability, so is often the last thing to adjust.

You might want to consider fixing the top to the frame, cutting perfectly parallel mitre slots, then squaring the fence.

 

[transatlantic]

If it was me, I'd :

1) Cut the top to size and *absolutely* square (this is the reference!)
2) Use sides of top to cut mitre slots. Left side reference for left slot, right side reference for right slot
3) Check slots are both parallel and square to top
4) Cut out large opening for blade (the slot for the \ero clearence insert). This doesn't need to be square, but I'd still apply the same accuracy.
5) Attach top to base loosely (enough so things move with a little persuasion, but with enough friction not to move to easily)
6) Use a known parallel wide straight edge to align slots parallel to blade (avoid the teethc tips else they offset things)
7) Tighten everything up
8) Check again for parallel (if wrong, loosen and repeat from 6)
9) Your slots should now be square and parallel to the top and parallel to your blade.

At this point, you can now add the fence and align it parallel to the blade (which will make it square to the top)

 

[Stanleymonkey]

Is this technique any use for you?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ_nzvYEZ-4

Martin

 

[Iwf]

Thanks both. Clearly I need to replan the process. I'd seen the use of the five cut process for squaring a sled, but not the saw itself. Great ideas though

Thanks

 

[transatlantic]

Is this technique any use for you?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ_nzvYEZ-4

Martin

Thats for checking a sled. He'd want to be checking his tabletop in reference to the blade. Trying to test that with a sled just adds another variable.

 

[Stanleymonkey]

Is this technique any use for you?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ_nzvYEZ-4

Martin

Thats for checking a sled. He'd want to be checking his tabletop in reference to the blade. Trying to test that with a sled just adds another variable.

I know nothing about this as I don't have a table saw.

Couldn't you use that five cut approach to check a fence's angle to the saw? Or is it just for sleds?

 

[Iwf]

The problem as I see it, is that the saw blade even at full height is actually quite small by comparison to the size if the table. By squaring against the mitre slot, there has to be an assumption the slot is true all the way along.

I've ordered a Japanese rule from Axminster , which has 1/2 mm markings. I guess if I extend a pencil line from the saw blade to edge of the table I can measure the distance to the mitre slot at the actual blade and both ends.

I've ended up with just about every measurement device you can buy. Here's hoping the combination will lead me in the right direction.

I like the idea of the 4/5 cut test. I guess you should be able to do it with the fence in place, but I can't work out the maths.

Regards

 

[MattRoberts]

Not sure what the issue is. If you route the slot using a straight edge, it should be true all the way along. To get a second slot perfectly parallel, make a Jig that will run in the first slot and attach the router to it to cut the second.

The saw blade doesn't need to be micrometer accurate in terms of being parallel - the tooth furthest at the front will always be doing the cutting.

In fact it arguably should be slightly unparallel, with the rear of the blade a hair further away from the fence - this will help prevent the workpiece binding on the back teeth