Sellers and his Frame Saw.

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I've made a turn saw and also a longer version of that frame saw. I used the universal Japanese blade from Fine Tools. It cut extremely well. It was fast but the whole saw was too long to be used in place of a tenon saw, too cumbersome. The size was more in keeping with those Bow (log) saws. A shorter version may well be a different matter. I can see an advantage in that the depth of cut is going to be greater than your usual tenon saw - should that ever matter.
 
I've used one, long time ago, just to see how it cut, Joiner had just changed the cording.
I don't recall the blade being that wide, looks more like a meat saw!
Regards Rodders
 
Several inhabitants of this parish have made nice ones
I pretty sure I have seen one Racers made.

I think BB broke off his war with Jacob and made one too.
 
I use a bow saw instead of a coping saw, and on non-fine work to cut out the waste when dovetailing, but I'm not sure I'd use a frame saw in place of a tenon saw.
 
lurker":1cen27ms said:
I think BB broke off his war with Jacob and made one too.

I don't know when (or if) Jacob has become a fan, but I've had a carefully measured plan for a bowsaw, which many people have made, up on the web since 2001, which even predates Jacob's invention of the rounded bevel (around 2006 IIRC) !

BugBear
 
Although technically it shares very similar aspects to the bow saw it's intended use is rather different. This is aimed at a replacement for the tenon saw, hence the depth of the blade and it's inability to turn corners. I understand these types of saws were much more common on the continent.
I suspect it's a little unwieldy for cutting fine dovetail joints but I guess there's no reason why a smaller version (with very fine teeth to the blade) can't be made. I don't think Sellers states where he got that blade from. The Japanese blade from Fine Tools is mighty good but will need cutting down to length. It also gives a kerf of just over 1 mm iirc, which might be a little on the large side. I suppose the other option is to use one of the blades intended for the guided mitre saws, although the one such blade that I bought from Axminster didn't give a great cut. Maybe the original Nobex types are better.
 

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