router or other options?

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SteveF

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i have an oak board 35mm thick 380mm long 100mm wide
I need to rebate part of it so I get 25mm thick still 380mm long and 60mm wide with the other 40mm rebated by the 10mm
I know a pic would be easier
basically I need to cut a dado 40mm x 10mm
what is safest way?
my thoughts are the 60mm remaining would give enough support on router table (i could leave a few mm on the support edge and plane off to finish)
or remove riving knife and make the 40mm cut upright on tablesaw
or hand held router with fence

any critics please?

Steve
 
You mention "dado", a dado is cross grained, I'm going to assume you mean a long grain rebate.

If you go the machinery route then it's safest to do it on a router table. On a tablesaw rebating means you'd be cutting without a guard, possibly without a riving knife (you'd need a splitter instead), and you're not making a through cut. An experienced sawyer working outside of commercial regulations wouldn't think twice. But for everyone else a router table and multiple passes is the safer option, just make sure you get the feed direction correct, if you open up the rebate progressively from the edge then each pass is right to left, if you open up the rebate from the inside out to the edge (which you may choose to do for stability or feather board reasons) then the first pass is right to left and subsequent passes are left to right.

For a one-off job I might even use hand tools, it's probably faster. 40mm is a bit wide but you could form a groove (or multiple grooves if your planing skills aren't up to snuff) and then hog out the waste with a bench plane

The other option is to build up the final rebated component from two thinner components, bit of a faff but perfectly do-able.
 
thanks again
I was after an opinion as a safety aspect as well as feasibility and I appreciate all answers
the tablesaw was my last option

Steve
 
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