Rookie Need Help With Shed/Workshop Design

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Insy

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Hello,

Basically I'm new to all aspects of woodworking and construction but i would like to start, to do this I'm going to need a warm cosy man cave for tools and equipment. I haven't got much space to play with at the moment but in future i could probably extend the width/length a bit if needed, I'll list what dimensions i have to play with along with any ideas I would like to put into the design but i plan on sticking to basics.

Concrete Base Dimensions = 7ft Wide x 14ft Length
Roof Type = Pent Shed Roof

Any videos or designs a rookie can follow and help me understand the timer and timber size needed to construct the wall frames and roof i would most appreciate it, i would like it to feel pretty solid and not flimsy hence why i wish to build one that purchase a cheap one.

I have some designs but its always nice to get ideas/thoughts from others before going ahead and starting.

Thanks In Advance
Ben
 
there was a thread from a few days ago that may help. It in turn linked to a thread called (something like) "building a workshop the mike s way". That last thread is exactly what you need to know!
 
Must of missed that one, I'll have a browse now and see what goodies i can find.

I cannot wait to get it built and slowly kit it out, but i want to do it properly so the roof doesn't bow/leak which what happened last year when my old man built one.

Thanks much appreciated
Ben
 
So for the shed base I'm thinking of building

2 x 7ft x 7ft frames using 2" x 3" treated sawn timber, then bolt them together to create a 14ft x 7ft base which then i can apply the sheet material to to create the floor.

Would you use plywood or chipboard for the sheet material?

Thanks
Ben
 
marcros":3ji5litd said:
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/build-a-shed-mike-s-way-t39389.html

here you go.

I would probably use the 8x2 chipboard v313 flooring, but ply would do as good a job.

I'd use that as well and glue the tongues but make sure it's the water resist V313 or equivilant as marcros said . What I'd also do is isolate the flooring from the base with a sheet of plastic. DPM is ideal though not the cheapest but I have also used left over Tyvek (roofers synthetic underfelt) making sure it was printed face down in this case rather than up as used on the roof. The chipboard fixings will of course penetrate it but still will offer protection to the floor.

Make sure the 3 x 2s are well treated before you fit them as can't be done later.

Bob
 
Thanks for the advice.

Will 3x2's be sufficient enough or would it be better to go with 4x2's?

Yes i will treat everything including the underside to the plywood or chipboard what ever i use. I like you tip about lining under floor with some kind of water proof membrane.

Haha this will be fun :p it can't be that hard surely lol.

Ben
 
3x2 should be fine.

Can you stretch to 8ft wide?

Stick to a standard on centre layout and factor in some noggins to reduce twisting.

Screw the floor or use ring shank nails.

Place some DPM between the floor rafter and the concrete. I used the stuff on a roll the use in bricklaying. It's about 4" wide.

Mick
 
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