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Lumberman

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2 Aug 2011
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Kingston upon Hull
Is there any seasoned bandsaw operators out there? I have a record 300 E bandsaw, :x in the 4 years i've had the machine
I have never been able to resaw accurately, just lately the problem has got worse, I think I have tried every thing I know possible from setting the machine up properly and using one Ian's 5/8 Tuff blades which he reccommended I try. At first the blade just drifted a little to the right but now after about 1/2 inch into the cut it starts to veer drastically ending with a wedge shaped piece. The tension appears to be right and the guides are set as close as I dare set them, I can actually see the blade bow as I make the cut. The odd thing is it will cut a veneer off a 2" thick piece quite nicely, It seems anything much thicker than 2" the blade starts to wander, yet I made a small jewelry box with the lid glued on and made a cut through a six inch deep box so I could hinge the lid and it cut through it perfectly well. This saw has caused me to waste a lot of timber in the past i have got to the point where I am beggining to tear my hair out. I dont mind it drifting a bit because I can cut it a little over size and put it through my thicknesser. Has anyone else had this problem if so I would be grateful for any suggestions.

Harry.
 
I should think that a fellow record owner will be along and help, as you seem to be aware of the usual problems afflicting some bandsaws.
The only suggestion i would have for this apparent sudden worsening of performance would be that you might have a very close look at the blade and see if you have hit a small stone or some grit in someway, teeth shiny on 1 side and the set partially missing.
I don't cut chipboard on mine as chipboard seems to be commonly contaminated with metal of some sort.
HTH Regards Rodders
 
Thank you for your advice Rodders, I was wondering myself if the set could have been lost, but can't think how this has come about
I cut mainly hardwood occasionally Plywood maybe the glues in it could have affected it I don't know.

Harry.
 
Are you're blades sharpenable with a file? People sometimes look at me as if i am bonkers, but we always sharpened ours, in the saw shop, at the wood mill where I was taught my trade, I have sharpened quite a lot as I had to work in the saw shop for 12 months as part of the training apprenticeship.
Make up 2 temporary circles to support the blade, replicating the blade set up as fitted in the bandsaw, or use the vice carefully. Starting at the weld or braze, and using a saw set, set at the good side setting or read the saw setting given on the jaws.
When filing, Give the teeth 2, or 3, strokes with the file, first one way then the other, as you know.
If you are too busy to faff about try another known saw blade and bin the"duff" one. Regards Rodders
 
Hi Harry
I have the 350 and at first I had similar problems, my remedy may be of help. After a lot of hassle I found the 2 mitre tracks were not parallel with them selves or the blade insert track, this affected the table setup. As I always use the RH mitre track, so with my widest blade running in the centre of the tyre with a reasonable tension and no guides set put a known straight edge against the blade and shine a bright light down the length of the blade to see if there is any bowing, then slacken off the table bolts line up the mitre track and tighten the table bolts, I had to do this 4 times as when tightening the table shifted a degree os so, then set adjustable fence parallel to the straight edge, reset the guides. This solved my resaw problems, I hope it does for you as well.
Richard
 

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