Pressure Treated timber

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Established Member
26 Jun 2005
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grimsby Humberside
Can I glue pressure treated timber and what glue is best to use for this? I am making a garden gate and intend to use pressure treated timber but am not sure if I can glue the mortices. Thanks.
I've made gates before,and used outdoor wood glue.
The pressure treatment only penetrates about 5mm,so when it has been cut for joints,apart from the outside edge it is just the same as any other timber.

As an aside (and I suspect that there are others on this forum better qualified to comment), I believe that you need to be careful when cutting pressure treated timber. The dust is particularly noxious. Also, you shouldn't burn any off-cuts - apparantly the remaining ash contains Arsnic.

I may have the wrong end of the stick but figured it worth mentioning just in case.
Matt - perfectly correct about it being toxic;at work,we carry material for Rentokil (or Protim Solignum as I believe they are now called) - and arsenic acid is one of the main products.
D3 PVA will work well (sold as exterior-grade PVA).

The waste from treated timbers is supposed to be bagged and disposed of as toxic - not landfilled either. If handling a lot of it you should be aware that it can be absorbed through the skin - so avoid handling with bare hands. Finally any exposed ends, such as where planks are crosscut, need to be treated as well.

I once cut some pressure timber for a neighbour ( he was altering some garden fencing) and it ruined my saw blade. I think generated heat off the blade made the preservative sticky, that got on the blade and things most probably went from bad to worse from there. Even the extraction sawdust system blocked.
As a lot of treated timber is still damp the moisture will help set off PU (polyurethane) glues so they are also suitable. You could also look at the new Titebond III or use Extramite but the mixing up is a pain.

Anyone noticed how it always smells ofv fresh pizza bases?
I have made quite a few garden gates and other items from pressure treated wood. Almost any waterproof glue is suitable evostick, screwfix etc but the wood needs to be dry. Most of the wood is stored outside at wood yards in piles gets wet and tends to stay wet. I usually store it under a lean to with open ends in an area where the wind can help to dry it, usually takes a couple of days it is then much lighter in weight. It will not dry out well if left in a workshop.

When cutting mortice and tenon joints the fibres will often tear and the finish is poor. Glue up well and dowel each joint this will prevent too much movement when the wood swells back up outside.

Although you need to be careful with the dust especially when sanding I think that you will find the new tannalised timber does not contain the carcinogenics that the old arsnic type preservatives had. New legislation according to my supplier.

I think if I were making a gate I'd use un-treated timber and then treat the finished item. Perhaps not a good as pressure treated; however, I suspect pressure treatment is overkill for a gate in any case (all things considered).

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