Parting Tool

[Waka]

Guys

I'm after a new parting tool and only having a basic set of tools, am looking for some recommendations on the type, i.e, standard, diamond etc.

All comments appreciated.

 

[paulm]

Diamond profile one gives less binding in deeper cuts Tony, but to be honest you can easily avoid that by creating a clearance cut to make it slightly wider than the tool anway. Alternatives are a very narrow blade which is good if working with small pieces of exotics where material wastage needs to be minimised, or a wider bedan type which is useful for bead rolling, creating spigots and similar things but obviously creates more material loss.

So any of those three really, depending on what you're needs are, or maybe the thin one and the wide one to hedge bets and be more useful overall ? The thin one can also be used long edge on and trailing for smoothing the outside of bowls (without the toolrest).

Cheers, Paul

 

[CHJ]

Despite having a selection of 'parting type' tools, the two 'go fors' that get 90 % of use by me are:


A 1/2" x 1/8" diamond shape like this pattern:

And a thin one like this ground with a small nose bevel:

 

[Waka]

Thanks guys, must take a trip soon and get one. I'm not the most practised turner but I was doing a fair bit before Christmas and thought it was something I should do more of.
You never know one day I might post something.

 

[Dieseldog]

You never know one day I might post something. [/quote]

Post some of your work up...Be good to see your turnings

 

[Jonzjob]

I have one of the thin b;aded parting tools and they are very good, but I was advised to grind the point off to look like it is below. It gives you a much better bevel to work with. Also, with any parting tool always make any deep parting cuts wider than the blade as has been said earlier, but it's even more important with the very narrow one as it has a nice wide blade to bind on the spinning wood and, whatever you do, if you are making a deep cut with the narrow one don't touch the blade straight away 'cause it gets VERY hot!!!!!

orryn about the photo quality

 

[Waka]

You never know one day I might post something.

Post some of your work up...Be good to see your turnings[/quote]
If you look in hand tools under Secret Santa gifts, Alex8 posted a screw driver handle i made a couple of week ago.

This was by no means the first attempt, I tried is out on cheap wood before I did the final in Rosewood. Doing that job has made me want to do a little more turning, it really makes a change from the furniture I normally make.

Once again guys thanks for the tips.

 

[OldWood]

I have one of the thin b;aded parting tools and they are very good, but I was advised to grind the point off to look like it is below. It gives you a much better bevel to work with. Also, with any parting tool always make any deep parting cuts wider than the blade as has been said earlier, but it's even more important with the very narrow one as it has a nice wide blade to bind on the spinning wood and, whatever you do, if you are making a deep cut with the narrow one don't touch the blade straight away 'cause it gets VERY hot!!!!!

orryn about the photo quality

John
Can you give some comments on the turning speed to be used please ? In metal lathing you turn the speed right down when parting off.

Rob

 

[Jonzjob]

I normally have the speed quite high Rob unless it's a bigger piece, over about 4 or 5". Even then only a little slower. If it is a bigger piece then I tend to start to part off and then finish the cut on my band saw.

I have been doing several sets of drinks coasters and for those I use the thin parting tool to cut a slot about 1\4" or so, remove the chuck with the cylinder still mounted and cut it off on the saw. My K8 chuck is about 1/2" larger diameter than the coasters, so I put a 1/4" piece of wood under the cylinder and it cuts off nice and square ready for the next coaster to come off.

 

[OldWood]

Thanks John - I suppose from the fact that the books don't give any specific guidance then no specific speed is required. But then the books tend to lack guidance on sanding speeds and pressure as well and it's only relatively recently have I learnt about that !

I tend to use a fine pull saw on occasions as that gives a cut which requires little finishing off.

rob

 

[Jonzjob]

You're welcome.

My band saw leaves a pretty fine cut too and no effort needed :mrgreen: One of the reasons for using it is the arthritis in my hands. I just can't put any compression pressure on them. Pulling, no problem, but not pushing I'm afraid

 

[LancsRick]

I find the diamond parting tool to be all I need (I don't do any work fine enough to warrant the narrow one). Binding is certainly less of an issue with them, but usually you can easily widen the cut slightly without affecting the work so I wouldn't get too hung up on that personally.

 

[Noggsy]

I use a 1/8th diamond parting tool almost entirely now, having not got on with my larger one (5/8ths I think). I have made a thin one from a thin bracket, which is useful for very thin parting and like was said upthread, I've ground the bottom to an angle to make it easier to use.