Nail Gauge Question

[Torx]

Are these really 3mm shank, or will that be referring to the head?

https://tradefixdirect.com/stainles...CatEciDyQ9x82W7JyWGzvCIaAgdEEALw_wcB#moreInfo
Thanks!

 

[Bingy man]

Are these really 3mm shank, or will that be referring to the head?

https://tradefixdirect.com/stainles...CatEciDyQ9x82W7JyWGzvCIaAgdEEALw_wcB#moreInfo
Thanks!

I read those specs at 3mm is the gauge or thickness of the shank not the head ..

 

[Torx]

I read those specs at 3mm is the gauge or thickness of the shank not the head ..

Me too, does that not seem a large shank for nailing cladding? I’m only guessing, if it’s right it’s right, but I might need to drill to avoid splitting as I’m nailing at the edges. Perhaps I’m looking at the wrong sort of nail. Or perhaps I shouldn’t nail at the edges? More research needed.

 

[Torx]

I was planning to nail this way, perhaps I need to hire or borrow a paslode for a narrower shank?

 

[Bingy man]

Looking at the photo of those nails the 3 mm is most likely to the outside edge of the annular ring which could be aprox 0.5 mm or more leaving 2.5 mm or less for the actual shank diameter. These nails will not be easily removed once hammered home .

 

[Fergie 307]

I would agree, they are a great nail if you are never going to want to remove them, they are pigs to get out without damage to the cladding.

 

[Torx]

Thinking about it a bit more, that was never going to work anyway - I need to fix like this really

Just need to make up my mind whether to nail (perhaps without the annular shank, if it's likely to cause problems

https://tradefixdirect.com/stainles...SbJedDbT5D4F-xKULpn8gCAaAlVsEALw_wcB#moreInfo
(I looked at hiring a paslode, but it doesn't seem worthwhile)

Or screw (a bit more expensive and time consuming)

https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-plus-stainless-steel-tg-screw/p36869
It's a relatively small area though.

 

[slimshady]

shouldn't it be just the one nail.

. this will allow some movement of cladding.

 

[Torx]

shouldn't it be just the one nail. View attachment 160046. this will allow some movement of cladding.

I did hear that but then others say x 2 fixings is ok as long as the boards have space between to move independently (as opposed to one screw through two boards). They’re 140mm wide, seems a lot for one screw? And with the profile (simple, since I’m cutting it myself) wouldn’t it be prone to warping?

But I’m all in as far as fewer screws go if you disagree.

 

[Fergie 307]

Plain featherboards are traditionally held by a single nail passing through the thick lower section, but positioned just above the upper thin edge of the board underneath. The nail only passes through the one board so the underlying on is free to expand and contract, if that makes sense. They can be wider than you are proposing. Don't see any reason why that shouldn't work equally well for your boards.

 

[HOJ]

@Torx Whilst there are lots of opinions on the best methods to fix timber cladding, which I decline to get drawn into, I refer you to this document for clarity on industry standards, which may help. Cladding

 

[Torx]

@Torx Whilst there are lots of opinions on the best methods to fix timber cladding, which I decline to get drawn into, I refer you to this document for clarity on industry standards, which may help. Cladding

Thanks, that's very helpful