lubrication

[nabs]

... for the easy working of saws and planes etc, in case you were wondering. Recently I have had a nagging doubt that I was missing out using a candle for this purpose, so I have made a 'Paul Sellers' rag-in-a-can oiler so I can compare:

[youtube]npKo1y2e8RI[/youtube]

I only made it last night so it is too soon to comment on how much my life will improve as a result, but I wondered what others thoughts were on this topic?

Also, I noticed that Mr Sellers used a peeled plum tomato can (Waitrose - very posh!) but I have used baked beans (Heinz, natch!) - will this make a difference?

 

[NazNomad]

In the Winter months, I recommend the BLO-soaked rag-in-a-can oiler. It saves on a lot of workshop heating. :-D

Mod Edit:- Newbies Note, Never Ever use a polymerising oil on a compacted Rag unless it is stored in a fully air sealed container, the above comment may be tongue in cheek but it is highly dangerous and can cause serious fire.

 

[memzey]

I always use a squiggle from a candle. No fuss and one candle will likely outlast me. I haven't tried the oiler myself so am somewhat interested in its relative merits but don't feel the need to change my practice at the moment.

 

[bugbear]

I always use a squiggle from a candle. No fuss and one candle will likely outlast me. I haven't tried the oiler myself so am somewhat interested in its relative merits but don't feel the need to change my practice at the moment.

IIRC J Kingshott recommended a roll of rag in a meat paste jar, long ago.

BugBear

 

[Trafalgar]

Build an Oil Wicke:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/artic ... -oil-wicke

 

[bugbear]

Build an Oil Wicke:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/artic ... -oil-wicke

See Naz's post above... !

Crazy World of Arthur Brown...

BugBear

 

[custard]

Maybe that's Paul Sellers joinery background showing through there, but the cabinet makers I know with these always fill them with camellia oil or the same silicone free lubricant they use on their saw and planer tables. If your work will end up in a spray shop or undergoing one of the trickier finishing regimes then there's no way you'll be splashing around 3-in-1 at your bench!

 

[Trafalgar]

Build an Oil Wicke:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/artic ... -oil-wicke

See Naz's post above... !

Crazy World of Arthur Brown...

BugBear

I'd never use linseed oil either but apparently the old timer's did -- probably why a lot of shops burned down. I've experienced almost a total loss from fire, though it started in an adjacent space, not in my own shop.

I just use candles.

I do like the look of the wicke from the PW article. I think I have that issue and could probably make a scan...

 

[D_W]

In the Winter months, I recommend the BLO-soaked rag-in-a-can oiler. It saves on a lot of workshop heating. :-D

Mod Edit:- Newbies Note, Never Ever use a polymerising oil on a compacted Rag unless it is stored in a fully air sealed container, the above comment may be tongue in cheek but it is highly dangerous and can cause serious fire.

For heat *and* grease, I'd recommend a decent whiskey and a bunch of pork rinds. Just rub your hands on your tools while you're eating them.

 

[D_W]

paraffin on metal planes, paste wax (applied rarely) on woodies and a 50/50 mix of beeswax and mineral oil for saws (and cracked hands, and razor burn, an tool handles, and chapped lips and longer term rust prevention, and.......)

 

[John15]

Candle wax works well for me. The oily rag in a tin looks a bit messy.

John

 

[El Barto]

I too copied Paul Sellers with one of these. Although it's not as nice as yours Nabs; it's an old t-shirt stuffed into a small clay pot and also soaked in 3-in-1. BUT I do like it a lot, not only for lubricating the sole of a plane but also generally using on exposed metal. Chisels, plane bodies etc as a way to keep away rust. I dunno if it actually works but I do it anyway.

 

[AndyT]

I'm in the group who find a candle clean, quick and convenient.
I did follow a Roy Underhill video and made a grease pot, but I use it for small drill bits, not tallow.
So thanks Nabs, for your research to see if we are missing out.

 

[nabs]

I got a couple of hours to do some sawing and planing this evening while preparing the timber for my bench legs and aprons - this is my 2nd attempt as I made a hash of the first ones. Happily this made for a 100% scientific comparison what with the first attempt being candle-assisted and attempt two using the rag-in-a-can-oiler (RIACO).

Safety-considerations
you may well think there is not much between them, but you are probably forgetting that all candle users regard their candle as a 'lifetime tool' (c.f memzey's comment above) and at some point, therefore, will have pinkies close to a sharp blade as said candle wears down. No such risks with the RIACO.

lubrication effect
not a lot of difference on the planes, tbh, but I could feel a big improvement on the saw. I have been experimenting with a very narrow set as part of my saw sharpening escapades and have probably overdone it with my 'spearior' panel saw, so that it was prone to binding in the cut. What I found with the candle was, when combined with the slightly damp resiny scaffold board I was cross cutting, that the candle wax was combining with the resin imbued moisture and creating a sticky gunk that made things worse. The RIACO made a big difference and no binding occurred (I am being serious on this point!)

mess
neither device creates a mess.

ease of use
No special training is needed for either lubricator, however, life is too short to squiggle a candle on both faces of e.g a rip saw. The RIACO in comparison is a dream - swipe, swipe and you are done. You can also do your planes without changing the position of your right hand too. Furthermore - as if you needed more reasons! - there is something annoying about squiggle motions, whereas a graceful swipe with the RIACO is rather soothing.

I defer to custard on compatibility with specialist finishes, but leaving that to one side it is a hands-down win to the RIACO.

Fellow candle-lubbers should give it a go - you are bound to have a half can of something-or-other lurking in the kitchen.

 

[Droogs]

Nabs, what about the jaggy edges on the can? I don't have a slicey tin opener just an old army compo one and I bought a really really big candle

 

[NazNomad]

I must apologise for my earlier post... It wasn't big, or clever. Thanks to the Mod for editing it.

Now, back to the oily thing. Doesn't the oil get on the wood you're planing?

I have a candle hanging on a string that I use on 'sticky' tools.

 

[nabs]

Nabs, what about the jaggy edges on the can? I don't have a slicey tin opener just an old army compo one and I bought a really really big candle

Good point Droogs - Sellers does not cover this, and watching his video again it does seem he has used a modern can with a pull top. He uses the circular body of a panel hammer as a mini-anvil to flatten the edge left behind and I suppose you could try this, but obviously you will be taking a certain level of risk re. the aforementioned jaggy edge.

The big candle is a creative solution to some of the deficiencies I mentioned in my review.

 

[skipdiver]

I admit to wondering why you would want to smear 3 in 1 all over your project when viewing Paul Sellars oily rag in a can. I use a candle.

 

[Racers]

+1

I don't mix oil and wood, unless its Danish oil!

Pete

 

[nabs]

I suppose that logic dictates some of the lubricant you use will end up on the surface of the wood, the question is whether the amount left behind by the very fine film of oil that goes on your tools can affect the finish. I haven't got a clue - here is what Paul Sellers has to say about it:

https://paulsellers.com/2013/12/oil-pad ... amination/

does anyone have any experience of it causing a problem? Keen experimenters can find out themselves for a small outlay of time (approx 10 mins) and minimal costs (£0.0p)*

*costs may increase if you do not have a small beans can or the like!