Low angle jack planes

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I have the Veritas LAJ and find it superb. Yes I did find I loosened the front knob initially, but learned to grip it without twisting it. I've never used any other brand of LAJ.

Cheers, Vann.
 
LancsRick":2ry3jdht said:
Generally for planes my preferred option is buying used and restoring, however despite keeping an eye out the pickings seem to be slim to none on low angle jack planes. As a result I'm considering buying new - unheard of for me!

Options that are around seem to be...

Stanley sweetheart - £110 - my main concern is some reports of the blade bed not being parallel to the sole, which isn't easily solved.

Quangsheng and Axminster Rider - £160 - both of these seems to get good reviews. The Quangsheng used to gain favour as it came with 3 blades for the same price but that doesn't seem to be true anymore.

Lie Nielsen - £240 - getting a bit rich for my liking, but I have to say there's an element of "wouldn't it be nice to have one LN".

Veritas - £250 - don't know much about this one but as its veritas I'm assuming good things. The only bit I have picked up on is apparently a nice lateral adjustment design.

So, what would the UKW community suggest out of these options?
I have the Stanley and find it to be excellent. No issues with the bed. I'd say the finishing on the casting is better than my Veritas shooting plane!

Sent from my Redmi Note 5 using Tapatalk
 
woodbloke66":1wfr5ns7 said:
sundaytrucker":1wfr5ns7 said:
Also I prefer O1 or PMV11 to A2.
To go slightly off topic here; I also felt the same way about A2, but have 'come round' to using it again. I have a mixture of PM-V11 and A2 blades in my BU planes and each type of steel can be honed so they perform identically. There are also A2 blades in my LN block plane and LN51 shooter. Honed using the SS 3M films and a Veritas honing guide - Rob

Good to know and hopefully as I get more used to it I will also 'come around' to A2. I also use 3M films albeit with the Lie Nielsen guide.

Off topic but saves me writing out a PM, how have you got along with the Diamond Wheel on the Tormek? I recently went back to the Tormek with the intention of getting the coarse diamond wheel in the future if reviews are favourable.
 
sundaytrucker":c4kernnu said:
Good to know and hopefully as I get more used to it I will also 'come around' to A2. I also use 3M films albeit with the Lie Nielsen guide.

Off topic but saves me writing out a PM, how have you got along with the Diamond Wheel on the Tormek? I recently went back to the Tormek with the intention of getting the coarse diamond wheel in the future if reviews are favourable.

Utterly and absolutely brilliant with a capital B. The coarse diamond wheel actually releases the full potential of the Tormek as it never wears or glazes over, so there's no truing with the diamond thingie. Using the standard wheel as supplied is fine for O1 steel but it's hopeless on A2 and PM-V11 steels as it just stops cutting almost instantly, when the surface then has to be refreshed. It's expensive but if you own a Tormek it's the best investment you'll ever make. It can also be used to grind the bevels on Japanese chisels and having checked with Tormek, the soft iron backing won't clog the diamond surface - Rob
 

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