Lathe help

[MooreToolsPlease]

Good afternoon all,
I'm currently int he market for a lathe, the first project I want to tackle is that of making a pool cue. I have read many articles about it, and whilst I know it will be difficult, I dont think it is beyond my abilities.
The major cue makers all use metal lathes, but it is possible to do so on a wood lathe. Do any wood lathes have a hollow head stock so the work can pass through it?
Before I do make the cue (s) I plan on doing some basic turnings just to get used to the tools etc.
From what I have read so far the bare minimum will be a 3/4" roughing gouge, and a skew chisel. Is this all I need or is there other tools I will find useful?
I dont want to plough a huge amount of money into it at the moment, and thus I have been looking at the perform lathes the CCBL in particular, with the steady rest attachment. Will this machine offer enough power and capabilities to sucessfully turn a cue?
Also, I'm somewhat confused over the different ways of holding the work.
Can anyone give me a quick rundown of how the different types work? Scroll chucks, live centres etc

Thankyou kindly

 

[Argee]

Quite a few lathes have a hollow headstock, but not all do. However, the internal part of the hollw shaft is machined to take, for example, a number 2 Morse taper, which I think could be a limiting factor - I'm not sure, as I've never tried to turn a cue..

The "bare minimum" of tools you mention certainly is that - a bare minimum. The roughing gouge will turn square or octagonal stock into a cylinder and the skew chisel will further plane it down, including tapering it. Bear in mind, though, that the skew is felt by many to be the most challenging (i.e., difficult!) tool in the bunch to use effectively.

Scroll chucks are those which have a keyed operating hole, usually square, into which a key is turned to open and close the (usually) four jaws simultaneously. They have advantages over those that need two handles to close, but are usually heavier and more expensive.

Live centres are those which have a bearing-mounted central section, with either a ring, or a point (or both) which engages the end of the workpiece. The bearing allows the work to revolve without any friction on the ring or pin, because that turns with the workpiece. Dead centres have a fixed pin, around which the work will also revolve, but at the cost of some friction, hence, probably, a little burning unless lubricated.

The other options of attaching work are between two centres (either live or dead, or a combination of one of each), or via a faceplate. This screws onto the headstock shaft and the workpiece is mounted to it with screws, driven through the faceplate from the rear - not suitable for your intended project. Another option would be a jam chuck, which is turned to the desired internal diameter to be an interference fit with the workpiece, or a collet chuck, which grips the workpiece around its circumference in a similar way to a router.

You may find this site has some useful info. There are quite a few other turners within the Forum, so I'm sure you'll get some more info and guidance shortly. HTH

Ray.

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Matt

Welcome to the forum.

Sorry I can't help you on the turning front.

Cheers
Neil

 

[PowerTool]

Hi there,Matt,and welcome

In relation to your questions about the CCBL - yes,it will have the power to turn a cue,and yes it will have the capacity (assuming you are making it in two sections)

And if you decide to take the plunge,could you take some photos,as I would find the process of cue making quite fascinating (I've had a lathe for about a year,and although I've done spindle work,and repetitive work between centres,haven't tried to make one object in two or more parts yet)

Andrew

 

[NickWelford]

Hi Matt
I'm a newbie here but have been hobby turning for some time.

The hollow headstock (or tailstock for that matter) is generally only used to pass through a boring tool, or a threaded rod to hold a piece on the lathe. I doubt you would use it much for work items passing through, although I guess you could, if it was no more than 10 mm wide.
You can use a chuck or a drive centre to drive the piece.
Your biggest problem will be getting a smooth regular taper across the length of a cue (5 foot?) This will require lots of practice. And lots more practice. You might need a steady or you may get whipping - depends on the length and weight balance around the centre line. For example, if your grain is heavier on one side of the blank, it will tend to whip more.
You will probably be making a two piece cue - getting the taper consistent will be pretty tricky. Certainly you will need a roughing gouge and a big skew or similar straight chisel held at an angle. Also a parting tool.

Good luck - it's a fairly ambitious thing to be starting with, but do practice a lot before you put your good blank on there!

 

[Russell]

Most snooker cues are turned in 2 or 3 pieces now with extension add ons for the modern game I repaired the top section of a cue some years back from memory I did it on a lathe with 36" between centres. if the perform lath lathe has that it should be OK if you are making a multi section cue. You will need a centre steady the whip from the ash I used was extensive

 

[The_Teach]

Although I have no woodworking experience I was searching for a cue makers lathe myself and came across this site.

I work in the snooker/pool industry as a retailer but have always dreamed of turning my own cues.

I thought I would post when I read some of the comments in this thread. Most snooker cues (Uk made) are actually turned as one piece to allow the taper to take place consistently. This also allows for a consistent piece of wood. If a joint is fitted (at either 1/2 or 3/4 the length) then this is done afterwards.

There are a number of places in the states that supply cue makers lathes if you do have any luck with making one let me know

 

[Paul.J]

Hello Matt.Welcome.
I think you will be taking on a very difficult project for a first attempt,but with plenty of practice beforehand you should be able to turn a cue.
If you do do it in one piece than i think you will probably need 2 steadys.
Practice all you can and get some decent tools.
The skew is difficult to use but you do get good results from it.
I have the CCBL,and for the money i think it is a very good lathe.
Good luck.
Paul.J.

 

[Paul.J]

Hello THE-TEACH,and welcome.
Paul.J.

 

[Newbie_Neil]

The Teach

Welcome to the forum.

Cheers
Neil

 

[wood yew believe it !]

a big hi to the teach!