kitchen worktop cutting with a jig and whatnot..

[Homerjh]

Hi all, thought I would ask here as googleing brings up loads of confusing info!

I need to cut a L shape kitchen worktop, so will need to use a router jig to get it cut to size.

So you all know the drill(no pun intended)!

I have a 1\4" router, 1200 watt, don't have a cutting jig, or a guide bush,but suspect the holes are for 60mm bush.

So can it be done and any suggestions on the jig.

Will be used for two worktop installs, so don't need trade quality, but something that will least at least two cuts.

Also what is the usual rate for a worktop install out of curiosity...

Thansk

 

[Steve1066]

You will need a 30mm guide bush and a 1/2in straight cuter. I don't think you can plunge deep a nuf with a 1/4in router on 40mm work top. You can get a jig from B&Q cheep or Howdens about £90 .
I would charge min £250 for an L shape usually £300 with a hob and sink cut out

If it's wood you can just do a straight joint and uses a drill and a chisel for the worktops bolts.

Hope this helps

 

[Homerjh]

Thanks, will check the depth tomorrow of the router,I think it may be 5cm but need to double check.

Thanks

 

[MrYorke]

Your router is too small and under powered. You'll need a 1/2 inch router.

Also, if you've not done this before, I'd think twice about actually doing it! Or, get a bigger router and practice practice practice

Good luck

 

[Tom MasterCraftsman]

Hi, you can buy cheap jigs possibly tool station or ebay, But you will need a half inch router with a 30mm bush and a half inch straight cutter. It's worth using a good quality cutter, you get a far better joint.

It used to be a rule of £60 plus cost of new cutter a joint but most people tend to allow a days work, but you may find a local tradesman who may do on a joint price.

The jigs are easy to use if you know how, but can be a bit confusing if you don't.

 

[nev]

http://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-worktop-jig-616mm/11267

http://www.trenddirectuk.com/combi600.html

and comes with instructions, but you will need a bigger router

 

[Eric The Viking]

I saw a Makita jig in one of our local tool shops recently - made of a 1/2" thick piece of aluminium plate. It wasn't cheap, but it did look the business.

Anybody got one, and what are the pros/cons over the Tufnol ones?

 

[fluffflinger]

View from the trade.

Get a kitchen fitter to do unless you are looking forward to the challenge and don't mind spending £150 on bits and pieces.

Jig is essential and the cheap Trend one is fine but a 1/2 router and 30mm guide bush is essential, plus a good straight cutter. You would then be advised to to get a Trend Unibase so you can perfectly centre the bush and therefore the cutter, if the cutter is not centred you are stuffed before you start.

If you are going to buy worktop and have sufficient to do a few trial cuts it's not beyond the abilities of a careful DIYer but it is a fussy job and getting the joint level and sealed is something that comes with experience and the tricks of the trade are a dark art.

I sell and design kitchens for a living and very occassionaly fit a top or kitchen for friends or family and although I have watched hundreds being fitted I still get a little twitchy when I have to do one myself.

Finally if the l shape is not a perfect 90 degrees then don't even attempt it.

 

[Ghengis]

When i started fitting kitchens...many moon ago, we did the female joint with a skill saw and hand mitred the front with a hacksaw, for the bolt holes we used a 35mm forstener bit and hand cut the slots, once mitred we bolted together and ran the hacksaw to finish the fit.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I had a worktop done by a friend years ago, who also designed and built the kitchen units. He used a RAS to cut the masons's mitre. There was a very slight nick in the Formica where it made the turn - invisible if you didn't know it was there, otherwise spot-on.

Dead impressive,

E.

It made me wonder - the roll-off started at a quite well-defined point back from the edge, and the mitre intersected sharply, and it looked very good. I assume the only reason the ones done with a jig have a curve is because it's a 1/2" cutter, so the tightest radius is 1/4".

 

[Yetty]

Another view:

Have look for a local trade retailer / distributor who not just sells the worktops, but also offer a joint cutting service.

(Here in Suffolk my local outlet charge about 60 pounds per joint with clamps. The joints are perfect every time and they also delivery to site. Headaches all gone.)

 

[Distinterior]

Quite honestly, if you are only in need of doing two joints, it is not worth you spending the sort of money necessary to do the job right IMHO.

I also fit Kitchens for a living, and it does really require the knowledge and experience to do it correctly. Plus, if you get a Kitchen Fitter in to do the job and he puffins up, then it is down to him to replace your worktops. If you decide to do it yourself with unfamiliar tools, and you make a mistake, the cost of the replacement tops will be down to you.

See if you can find a local Fitter to give you a price for the work, it will be money well spent.

Tim.

 

[dickm]

Shouldn't really hijack this thread, but a closely related question which might be relevant to the OP. The instructions for fitting our new hob say the edges of the cutout should be sealed "with heat resistant material". Can someone specify what this is?

 

[Ghengis]

self adhesive reflective foil

 

[Eric The Viking]

It's used by insulation specialists, and you CAN buy it from Toolstation, but in my experience theirs is poor quality - sticks for a while then comes undone by itself :-(

The good stuff I had (note past tense) came from an insulation supplier.

 

[Graham Orm]

Get a pro in. It's not a DIY level job, and a 1/4" router won't do it.

 

[jt100]

hi got to agree with ghengis when i started i cut my worktop joints with a hand saw .plane and sanded.drilled out the bolt holes
easy no skill
john

 

[Lons]

Sorry Homer but if you have to ask then you and your router aren't up to it. I echo all that's been said apart from the do it by hand bit which is the only way you can do it without expense. and that takes skill and lots of practice.
The jigs are not difficult to use tbh though it will take you a lot longer to set it up than actually cut.

Unless you want an excuse to buy a 1/2" router, bit and jig, don't do it - get it done professionally. I fit kitchens as part of my business also btw though the majority these days tend to be solid surface or granite.

Bob