Kitchen cabinet construction

[Stanleythecat]

P!ease can I ask a few questions about kitchen cabinet construction?

I'm just putting my cutting list together for some units that I will be making in 18mm MFC and have got stuck on a few measurements!

Firstly I am using solid backs with a 65mm service void. Does the back 'sit' on the base or should it be the same height as the two sides so the base is in effect inside the back and sides?

As for the top strip, how wide should this be?

We don't want adjustable shelves, is construction the best time to add them? And if so is there's convention on height (in base units) and depth?

I'm making an in frame kitchen, I notice normal units are around 570mm, do I need to remove the additional width of the frames from the carcasses. The worktops will be granite but we are having built in appliances.

Speaking of which am I right in assuming that built in appliances don't require a cabinet?

I will be biscuit joining the cabinets, which edges should be edge banded?

Thanks in advance for your help, I've got a bit stuck on this and really appreciate any advice on offer.

Best regards

Leo

 

[Phill joiner]

Back panel should be the same height as your unit 720mm
Top front rail is usually 100mm but can be wider. With the sink unit because you are using a front frame I would leave the 100mm rail out. ( sink will fit easier)
Shelves go in afterwards on pins. Easier to be able to take out for cleaning.
570 carcase depth with 23mm front frame planted on the front. Granite tops will then have a 30mm overhang to match handles.
I would edge all the mfc edges. Even behind the front frames just in case water gets in there.

Hope this helps

Phill

 

[Phill joiner]

What appliances are you putting in?
dishwasher .....no carcase
single oven..... requires a carcase
tall Fridge freezers .... require a carcase.
under counter fridge freezers .... no carcase

 

[Stanleythecat]

Thanks Phil. Really appreciate your time in coming back to me. I was told to use 18mm poplar for the frames because we have two mid height built in ovens that would need to tie in with the frame thickness, one side is exposed next to the worktop if that makes sense. Does this sound OK?

Leo

 

[Stanleythecat]

What appliances are you putting in?
dishwasher .....no carcase
single oven..... requires a carcase
tall Fridge freezers .... require a carcase.
under counter fridge freezers .... no carcase

OK. Cool. Dishwasher and washing machine for under counter so none for them and yes to the ovens.

 

[Bigbud78]

Could you take some photos of you progress ?

I'm currently contemplating the best way to tackle our kitchen atm and most likely will go down the howdens route Although I really want to do it myself

 

[Phill joiner]

Thanks Phil. Really appreciate your time in coming back to me. I was told to use 18mm poplar for the frames because we have two mid height built in ovens that would need to tie in with the frame thickness, one side is exposed next to the worktop if that makes sense. Does this sound OK?

Leo

Not sure tbh mate.. I wouldn't go thinner than 22mm as the doors need to be this thickness also. Frames are most commonly 36mmx22mm fitted flush to the inside opening. End panels of 18mm are then planted onto the carcase to bring the outside edge of the frame flush. A v or round is added to the front frame rear corner and the front edge of the end panel where the two points meet.

 

[Stanleythecat]

Thanks Phil. I think I have worked out a way to sort the ovens. I would prefer to go for thicker frames and doors as you suggest.

So last question, you wouldn't subtract the width of the frame (22mm) from the 570mm to make (548mm carcass + 22mm frame +30mm overhang = 600mm) or just go slightly deeper on the granite to allow for the frames (622mm worktops)?

Getting my head round it now!

 

[Stanleythecat]

Could you take some photos of you progress ?

I'm currently contemplating the best way to tackle our kitchen atm and most likely will go down the howdens route Although I really want to do it myself

No progress as yet Bigbud but will try to put something up when the ball gets rolling if you tell me how!!! Either that or pm me and I'll share what I have/am learning.

 

[Phill joiner]

Thanks Phil. I think I have worked out a way to sort the ovens. I would prefer to go for thicker frames and doors as you suggest.

So last question, you wouldn't subtract the width of the frame (22mm) from the 570mm to make (548mm carcass + 22mm frame +30mm overhang = 600mm) or just go slightly deeper on the granite to allow for the frames (622mm worktops)?

Getting my head round it now!

No I wouldn't take the thickness of the carcass. I think by memory you will need 550 plus pipes for a dishwasher to fit. Some are really tight with a 570 carcass. Add it on...... The granite won't cost anymore. When I make kitchen carcasses we make the carcass 575 just to make life a bit easier. JUST IN CASE SOME ONE IS READING THIS AND THINKING OF MAKING CARCASSES..... If you are having laminate tops you have to work to 600/616 tops.

Something else to watch out for mate is the dishwasher door if you are having an integrated one. Front frame will hit plinth and need to be cut out more than usual..

It is a lot to get your head around but just plan plan and plan it out.

 

[Stanleythecat]

Fantastic. That's cleared everything up. Thanks Phil.

 

[Benchwayze]

P!ease can I ask a few questions about kitchen cabinet construction?

I'm just putting my cutting list together for some units that I will be making in 18mm MFC and have got stuck on a few measurements!

Firstly I am using solid backs with a 65mm service void. Does the back 'sit' on the base or should it be the same height as the two sides so the base is in effect inside the back and sides?

As for the top strip, how wide should this be?

We don't want adjustable shelves, is construction the best time to add them? And if so is there's convention on height (in base units) and depth?

I'm making an in frame kitchen, I notice normal units are around 570mm, do I need to remove the additional width of the frames from the carcasses. The worktops will be granite but we are having built in appliances.

Speaking of which am I right in assuming that built in appliances don't require a cabinet?

I will be biscuit joining the cabinets, which edges should be edge banded?

Thanks in advance for your help, I've got a bit stuck on this and really appreciate any advice on offer.

Best regards

Leo

Leo:

If you have a VHS recorder/player, I have a VHS video from Fine Woodworking on the subject of frame less kitchen cabinets. From a guy named Levin. You are welcome to it if it is of any use.

Regards J

 

[Stanleythecat]

Thanks for the kind offer buddy. Unfortunately we haven't even got a vhs player in the family anymore!!!

 

[Benchwayze]

Not a problem. I'm not an old VHS fuddy really. My recorder is VHS and DVD combined, so I could transfer my favourite VHS. But I never bothered in the end!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kitchen-Cabinet ... ade+simple

I found that book informative, and easy to follow. One reviewer doesn't agree, but he/she seems to want everything on a plate anyhow. Being a worker who just needs to be shown or have things explained, I rarely use a plan as such. I jot stuff down on maths paper, and go from there! Besides with kitchens, you dimension the cupboards to suit the room you are fitting out!

Best of luck.

j

 

[Stanleythecat]

I actually own that book John! If birch ply was cheaper I would have probably used his methods! I bought a kreg pocket hole kit and will probably use that on the frames.

 

[Benchwayze]

I suppose you could use MR-MDF, as you can use a Kreg to make cabinets in MDF anyhow. I would opt for the water/boil proof ply. It's less expensive than bitch ply, but superior to MDF. If you used frame-less construction you would save money by needing no nice poplar or similar to face your boxes, so it might balance out a little!

Cheers.

J