Keeping walnut dark

[user 17340]

Hi. This is perhaps more of a finishing than turning query but I've never used that forum.
I'm normally trying to keep light woods as light as possible - this time I want to keep some walnut dark.
I get off cuts from a local staircase maker and notice the walnut always ends up paler than when I started. I enclose a sample, finished with cellulose sanding sealer and spray melamine. Is there a finish that will enhance and preserve the browns?

Any ideas welcome.
Mike

 

[Spindle]

Hi
Any oil finish will darken the wood - which one you choose will depend on the item's intended use.

Regards Mick

 

[jpt]

The other thought is that the surface you are looking at before turning is an old one which has to some extent oxidised and gone darker. The surface once worked will of course be newly exposed wood therefore lighter, over time this should darken.

As mentioned above and in numerous threads about finishing any finish will darken the wood just by different amounts, if you have an off cut put a new face on it and try the different finishes to see which works best for you.

john

 

[CHJ]

In addition to the new wood surface factor I think the very nature of your gloss finishing is a high percentage of the perceived lightening of the wood, the surface is reflecting more light as opposed to it being absorbed by the unfinished wood, although my experience has been that it just increases the contrast between the tones.

If your offcuts are tending towards the sapwood and therefore lighter then I suggest you try wiping them over with a Walnut Spirit Stain before sealing and finishing and see if they are more to your liking.

 

[Richard Findley]

Walnut is a funny one. Finishes and the effects of UV bleaching do actually make it lighter rather than darker. If you want it darker than your oil or lacquer are making it then use a stain before hand, you can tint the lacquer and/or you can then also use a dark wax to finish it at the end, depending on the final intended use.

HTH

Richard

 

[user 17340]

Thanks for the suggestions. I can try a few approaches and see how they work out.
Stain plus finish -v- oil to start with.
Thanks again,

Mike

 

[Richard Findley]

Thanks for the suggestions. I can try a few approaches and see how they work out.
Stain plus finish -v- oil to start with.
Thanks again,

Mike

For the strongest colour change, stain first. If you have facitity to, then spraying the stain will give the most even finish. If not, then just go steady with several light coats rather than a single heavy coat. If you oil first it will effect how the stain is absorbed and there may also be a compatability problem.

Spirit stain won't mix with oil, but it will tint a cellulose sanding sealer and melamine lacquer. I believe spirit stain can also be mixed with clear wax to creat custom wax colours too.

HTH

Richard

 

[marcros]

Personally, I would try a water based dye, and then tru-oil on a scrap. I would also try just the tru-oil. You can build the colour in layers by reapplication of the dye. You can also "correct" any colours that are present or expected- for instance if an oil is going to give a yellow hue, you can add a purple element to the stain to neutralise it. This is entirely trial and error to get right, and may be more relevant to trying to match a finish.

The problem with staining is that whilst it will change the colour, you can lose some if the subtleties that the timber has. Sometimes you want a uniform appearance, other times not. That is why I suggest trying the oil alone as well. The dye that I have can be mixed in spirit too, which can be mixed into oil so can tint it. I have not done this yet though. Never tried tinting wax either.

 

[Richard Findley]

Talk to me about try-oil Macros. Not something I've ever heard of or used?

Thanks

Richard

 

[CHJ]

....The problem with staining is that whilst it will change the colour, you can lose some if the subtleties that the timber has. ....

On small items I find it possible to retain some of the figuring variations by applying the stain with a small brush, that way you can paint specific areas or enhance figured colour patches.

Another thing, if all you have is spirit stain then if used with fillers or water based adhesives it works surprisingly well as the spirit rapidly evaporates and just leaves the pigments behind.

 

[marcros]

Tru-oil...

I discovered it from the forum, and it is traditionally used/designed for gun stocks. It is a varnish, I believe, rather than an oil. I put it on either with a cloth, or with a gloved hand and massage it it. Leave a few minutes and wipe off any excess. For any subsequent coats, I would denib and then put a bit on a cloth, working a couple of square inches at a time and run with a bit of pressure. It sounds slower than it is and a little goes a long way. You build a sheen by using a number of coats. I have wet sanded it to grain full walnut.

If I have anything walnut, it would be my default finish, and it is a top contender for anything else that I would oil. When I have used up the oils that I have, I will stick to that alone, unless I specifically need something else.