Is this a crazy way to build a bench?

[jimmcmahon]

I’ve returned to woodwork after leaving work behind and I want to build a bench. I happen to have an unused heavy solid oak (made from staves) kitchen worktop, 2000mm x 960mm x 40mm deep and was thinking of using this for my bench top.

I was also going to mount this upon a heavy duty work table made from steel, topped with 20mm MDF, measuring 1800 x 760mm, so they’ll be an overhang on all sides. I was just going to screw up through the MDF to the bottom of the worktop.

Is this idea going to work, or is it a crazy way to go about building a bench?

Will I have any problems cutting dog holes or mounting vices? All opinions welcome.

 

[MikeG.]

Well it doesn't sound ideal, but I am sure you could make it work. I'd worry most about the steel frame. How stiff is it? If it is 25mm box section, then it's just not going to be sturdy enough to dampen down vibrations and so on, and may even break in the end under the horizontal loads of planing. What I suggest you do is use it as a temporary bench on which to build your proper bench.

 

[tony_s]

My bench top is made from beech staves, thickness is roughly 40-45mm; the rest is pretty much a standard wooden carpenters work bench affair. It has plenty of mass what with a four drawer cabinet beneath where I keep measuring tools, abrasives,etc.
I can't really see how you'd have any problems drilling dog holes or mounting a vice unless, of course, your steel structure gets in the way. If it was me, I'd take the trouble and make wooden legs, aprons, etc now rather than it becoming something you're going to have to get around to doing in the future

 

[thetyreman]

wooden legs and frame is better

 

[autotrans]

i use scaffold boards most companies have a load of boards not fit for there purpose you can usually blag

 

[ED65]

Depending on the nature of the work you'll be doing, and how much of it, plus how the bench will be positioned in the space (against a wall or in a corner removes some or all of the concerns about frame stiffness) this could work well for you.

But the way you propose to attach the top is likely a problem, as solid wood needs to be allowed to move. If you look underneath any decent table the top will be affixed to the framing by some means that allows the top to expand and contract across its width as relative humidity rises and falls.

So you can screw directly into it through the MDF if you only use screws towards the centre, this fixes the centre and allows the front and rear portions to move as they need to. Or you can screw along both short edges as long as the front and back pairs of screws ride in elongated holes or short slots in the MDF. If you want to add any screws along either long edge the holes in the MDF for them also have to be elongated or slots.

Will I have any problems cutting dog holes or mounting vices?

Dog holes should be fine. Possibly yes on the vices, because of how deep they run. If your overhang isn't wide enough that a vice can be mounted and completely clear the frame then you'll have a problem.